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MercRising.........

88K views 215 replies 18 participants last post by  MercRising 
#1 · (Edited)
UPDATE 7/24/13...Car is running real well. AEM UEGO & Boost gauges, Hawk HPS pads, and SS brake lines going in soon. Bought and installed some Bridgstone RE970 A/S Pole Position tires, they are quiet and smooth but dang........... summer tires are way more fun:cry:. And lastly, WTF do I always change stuff that requires more $$ to dial in...like my rear camber because I'm lowered??!!??

This is my 10' SSM WRX hatch, bought it used with 28k miles in mint shape, tons of clear bra too.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Mid-size car Subaru
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Current Mods 7/24/13:
-Open Source street tuned with 91 octane, Stage 2 Torqued Performance 6/4/2012
-Flashed and monitored with Tactrix 2.0 cable, AEM UEGO WBo2, RomRaider, and Learning View
-Invidia 3" Catless Divorced DP (Grimspeed gaskets)
-K&N Typhoon Intake
-EBCS, Torqued Performance edition
-FMS TMIC
-Perrin Lightweight crank pulley
-Perrin Rear Sub Frame Bushings
-TiC Front Crossmember Bushings
-Torqued Solutions Front Shifter Bushings
-Whiteline Rear Dif inserts
-Group N Trans Mount
-Kartboy STS
-BC BR coilovers installed 4/20/13, 7k
springs front and rear. 7 clicks front/rear for commuting, 22f/20r for carving...........Thanx Krntehk
-Whiteline Adjustable 22mm RSB
-Kartboy Solid rear endlinks
-JNA Front Lip
-Red Tails DIY Painted
-Knock Off Ebay grill, sprayed semi-gloss black

-Rear hatch trim and emblem chrome painted semi-gloss black
-Shorty Ebay antenna, carbon and black
-All Windows tinted
-Tons of creak DIY fixes, mailny the dash/a-pillar
-Tsudo 3" CBE (POS. had to hammer the resonator down and remove heat shielding to kill the rattles)
-Rota G-Force 18x8.5 +40, semi gloss black
-Anodized blue valve stems
-Bridgestone RE970 A/S Pole Position tires 235/40 r18
-(Retired mid July 2013 Continental Extreme Contact DW 235/40/18 tires, cupped like crap and now the inner edges up front of f'd to the threads)
-Stock 17" gun metal colored wheels for winters with Conti DWS tires

Coming:
-Blue GMS radiator shroud
-DW65 Fuel Pump
-ID1000 Injectors-E85 (TEETERING BACK AND FORTH ON E-85)
-TGV Delete...DIY or Bought...don't know yet..
-Phenolic Spacer (When I do the TGV's)
-ELH
-EWG (This is far fetched but, maybe if things go well)
-Adjustable toe arms, SPC
-AIr Pump Delete

-Vinyl roof(maybe brushed steel color)
-New door speakers
-Door speaker amp
-Bigger sub amp, 1000w
-Adjustable 24mm Whiteline FSB
-GT Worx/RCE Blacks (or some better longer travel coils)



In my possession but not on the car:
KB solid front endlinks
SMY Guage Pod
AEM Boost gauge
AEM UEGO WBo2 gauge/sensor
Hawk HPS pads
SS brake lines



I'm always learning something new so this list is ever evolving.........

All the labor was done by me using DIY's from around the Suby Web Community. Never knew how much I'd enjoy wrenching and learning about tuning the fairly inexpensive rocket ships we all own!!!!!!!!


 

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#3 ·
Re: MercRising...just like my HP and my obsession level!

Just got home from TP road tuning. Eric was a good normal guy who really appeared to enjoy what he was doing and want to get it right for me. Can't wait to log and do some comparisons to stock. It's no monster but, a car I am excited about, yes it is! This car is now alive. 3 port EBCS is in and the noises coming out of my car are alien to me. The EBCS controlling the waste gate sounds odd in some situations. 3rd and 4th are amazing and 1-2 are semi violent, remember that this is my first foray into turbos and any sort of power other than a big truck V8.



I've gone all used parts except my tires, EBCS, and rear sway. I'd say i saved at least half...for sure more if I count my labor inputs. Still tons to learn but have really been taking therapy from my learning and actual physical building process.


Next comes light overlays, more bushings, lip....I think....


Would love to meet some folks but this community seems hit or miss. Some people are open and glad to share their passion, others are elite and snobby....too bad I suppose.
 
#5 ·
Re: MercRising...just like my HP and my obsession level!

Would love to meet some folks but this community seems hit or miss. Some people are open and glad to share their passion, others are elite and snobby....too bad I suppose.
As with the world. .not to mention, it is the internet. You should see how well us playas in the political playground get along outside of a PP thread.
 
#8 ·
Re: MercRising...just like my HP and my obsession level!

Day 1 on TP2 was great. Noises are going to take a minute to get used to. The wastegate makes jabberwocky noises sometimes, i think that's what I'm hearing. The 3" Tsudo CBE is too loud now too. I was fine with the stock DP but the catless Invidia has made it more metalic and higher pitched a bit. Makes me feel a little ricey.


Also realizing that new pads, maybe Hawk HP+, and some SS line or just fluid might help. The stockers are just not real pleasant when you need to come down in a hurry. I know my tires can do a heck lot more without me having to stand on the brakes. Just a little better modulation and stickier pads will be nice. Reading time..............

Found a rattle on my chassis from the mid-pipe now too. Guess the Napa generic hangers won't cut it. Poly maybe? Also might help if they were Impreza specific and made to hang trash cans.

Who in Denver can show me the Way of the Force on some vinyl wrap? Radio bezel and the silver plastic strip on the whole dash needs some visual love. Carbon.....Camo... Fluorescent..crap I'm losing my mind!!!!!!!!

Here is a 3rd-4th pull just past Bandamere drag strip after my favorite chicane in town. It's real open so what the hell. Still learning about the virtual dyno's and all the RomRaider capabilities so feel free to drop me some of your favorite links on that stuff.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwRlbQ6BUmk2aFh3VjlHSTM5eGc


OK, off to the brain scramble called forum digging!
 
#9 ·
Re: MercRising...TP2

Ordered some whiteline rear dif inserts yesterday, ordering a trans mount soon and have been eyeballing a lip kit too. I want to go full wrap with the lip b\c the side skirts just have to be there to get that BA appearance, IMHO. Blue lugs and a full blue engine hose kit are coming around in the next couple months as well. Just need a little baddaboom looks under the hood.


What about a fuel pump too? I don't believe I'm really in need of one quite yet but, would that be a safety policy for my engine and also be able to support my future mods?

Decided that since I'm comfortable at 280/320ish for now, a fund has to be started for some coilovers. Probably BC's but just starting my research. I need to be able to keep them friendly until I decide to run some laps or go out carving in he hills here west of Denver.



Probably have a new plan tomorrow but that covers today's outline!
 
#10 · (Edited)
MercRising...TP2

Got my rear did bushings, can't break the bolts. Hopefully a buddy can get me on his lift tomorrow.



Also wondering about blue stitching to replace the red interior accents. No sure a bit of blue else where can work with the red WRX and red stitching on the seat corners.

Still reading about coilovers, TMICs, and lips.

Going to try for some install notes and pics on a few things tomorrow. (OP updated with pics)
 

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#11 · (Edited)
MercRising...TP2

Went install the rear dif/crossmember bushings today as was only able to get the furthest 2 back, actually to the diff through the frame.


The left bolt on the further forward support crossmember rounded off even after repeated PB Blasting's. For sure frustrated that a 2010 car has a bolt that even though I was on a lift and the right angles was torqued enough to round.

How do I get the left bolt out is what I'm trying to learn tonight.
 

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#13 ·
MercRising...TP2

6, but the bolt was just on there gnarly. Even tried an impact on the actual bolt head vs the nut...and nothing. It was only a cordless though. May try my pneumatic impact later, on the bolt head while holding the nut with an open ended wrench. Need to get it out and replaced now that it's shredded anyway. Have it PB soaking again, not real stoked. Otherwise, torch and then a saw if the heat fails.
 
#14 ·
MercRising...TP2

I did those bushings and they came apart easily. Same year. Heck same color car! Very weird why it was so tight.
 
#15 ·
MercRising...TP2

I did those bushings and they came apart easily. Same year. Heck same color car! Very weird why it was so tight.
Other side came off with a breaker but not ridiculously tight. Hate dealing with stripped, no bueno.

Maybe a cheesesteak sandwich will help?
 
#18 · (Edited)
MercRising...TP2

Bought an extractor set of sockets and a breaker bar. As soon as I can get on a lift, that bolt is history.

Anyone have know the spec on that rear dif cross member bolt, top left in the pic. I need a replacement but can't really take that one out and then drive my car!
 

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#19 ·
Re: MercRising...TP2

Best quick rundown of launching I've come across yet.


""There are two things you need to accomplish to get a good launch in the wrx.[/size] You need to launch under some boost, and you need to control the load on the engine so it stays near max torque rpm for the first few feet without banging the clutch and shock loading the drive train. There are several variations on the theme and each person will discribe it slightly differently but you want to engage the clutch quickly and smoothly so it slips just a bit with out just side stepping the clutch, or frying the clutch by holding it at partial engagement. The newer 2003 cars have a flow limit valve in the clutch line so you cannot just let up on the clutch and break things. It slows down the engagement just a bit. On the 2002's you'll have to do that yourself. One of the top WRX drag racers in the country describes the technique where you stage, and then let the clutch out a bit until you can tell it is just ready to engage (the friction point) is just a fraction of an inch away. Hold at a moderate fast rpm (everyone picks a slightly different number) I use about 3000 3500 rpm. Now comes the key to launching under boost. You can only build boost under no load conditions when the engine is accelerating at WOT . Just as the second yellow comes on, stomp the throttle to the floor from your stage rpm, the engine will take about a second to rev to red line. There is only .500 seconds between each of the yellow lights. Watch the tach and as the rpm swings by 5000-5500 rpm let up on the clutch quickly.(you can't wait for the green light you have to start leaving on the last yellow) Since you prepositioned the clutch right at the friction point there will be very little clutch motion, or shock, your engine will be very close to 5500 rpm when the clutch engages and under some boost because you floored the throttle a fraction of a second earlier. If you get all that coordinated you should have enough torque and energy stored in the flywheel so the engine does not bog. Hang on !!! you will be accelerating at over 1 G and hit red line in low in about 1.5 seconds. Be ready to shift !!!!! The biggest time loss that keeps folks at 2.x seconds is a slow shift, you have to shift quickly to get back under power in second gear before you complete the first 60'. Shift quickly and firmly but NOT VIOLENTLY !!! your not trying to break anything just be quick. I tell folks to hold the shifter in their fingers not to grab it like a club, this gives you more feel and makes you less inclined to try to rip the shift knob off the console. If you get it right its quite a ride."I did not create this, it is pulled from another website, but it's a very good how to on launching a WRX. Enjoy." wrxtuners

Definitely trying to learn this and go to Bandimere drag strip at some point.


 
#20 ·
Re: MercRising...TP2

Also posted this in General Tech but haven't received any feedback quite yet. It is an opinion based request at some degree but, I am just curious what other daily driving guys around stage 2 would do for a next move at around $1000-$1200; Bigger TMIC\Sport spring on OE Struts or....Coilover\New Strut Spring combo(not decided yet)


http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,24640.msg330487.html#msg330487



FFS and LC are on my mind now too.
 
#21 ·
Re: MercRising...TP2

Decided to go BC BR's. Still researching spring rates so I can drop it a bit but still have an acceptable DD. Until then it will probably be aesthetics mods. Roof wrap along with black mirrors. Think the roof wrap will extend onto the the lower flat part of my rear spoiler too. After that, inlet and bigger TMIC.


FML, I need to hit the lotto tonight!!!!
 
#23 ·
Re: MercRising..finally got the stripped bolt out

Finally got the rear dif front cross member bushing insert in. Extractor socket was awesome but the 2 torches and breaker bars were also critical in getting off the stripped nut off. The stock bolt was a17mm heads, 12mm wide, 80mm long and a fine pitch 10.9 grade bolt. I got a replacement bolt at Ace Hardware, $5.






I kinda like problems sometimes because you have an excuse to learn and buy tools, another breaker and the extractor sockets! Also good time to roll over to a buddies with a lift...with an 85' M3 parked on it usually, got a ride it today....sick!


Anyway, Perrin Lightweight pulley, front cross member bushings and group N trans mount on the way! Ordering vinyl nest week from the same guy with the lift. May be a new approach color wise.


Happy 4th of July!
 
#24 ·
MercRising...TP2

Best quick rundown of launching I've come across yet.


""There are two things you need to accomplish to get a good launch in the wrx.[/size] You need to launch under some boost, and you need to control the load on the engine so it stays near max torque rpm for the first few feet without banging the clutch and shock loading the drive train. There are several variations on the theme and each person will discribe it slightly differently but you want to engage the clutch quickly and smoothly so it slips just a bit with out just side stepping the clutch, or frying the clutch by holding it at partial engagement. The newer 2003 cars have a flow limit valve in the clutch line so you cannot just let up on the clutch and break things. It slows down the engagement just a bit. On the 2002's you'll have to do that yourself. One of the top WRX drag racers in the country describes the technique where you stage, and then let the clutch out a bit until you can tell it is just ready to engage (the friction point) is just a fraction of an inch away. Hold at a moderate fast rpm (everyone picks a slightly different number) I use about 3000 3500 rpm. Now comes the key to launching under boost. You can only build boost under no load conditions when the engine is accelerating at WOT . Just as the second yellow comes on, stomp the throttle to the floor from your stage rpm, the engine will take about a second to rev to red line. There is only .500 seconds between each of the yellow lights. Watch the tach and as the rpm swings by 5000-5500 rpm let up on the clutch quickly.(you can't wait for the green light you have to start leaving on the last yellow) Since you prepositioned the clutch right at the friction point there will be very little clutch motion, or shock, your engine will be very close to 5500 rpm when the clutch engages and under some boost because you floored the throttle a fraction of a second earlier. If you get all that coordinated you should have enough torque and energy stored in the flywheel so the engine does not bog. Hang on !!! you will be accelerating at over 1 G and hit red line in low in about 1.5 seconds. Be ready to shift !!!!! The biggest time loss that keeps folks at 2.x seconds is a slow shift, you have to shift quickly to get back under power in second gear before you complete the first 60'. Shift quickly and firmly but NOT VIOLENTLY !!! your not trying to break anything just be quick. I tell folks to hold the shifter in their fingers not to grab it like a club, this gives you more feel and makes you less inclined to try to rip the shift knob off the console. If you get it right its quite a ride."I did not create this, it is pulled from another website, but it's a very good how to on launching a WRX. Enjoy." wrxtuners

Definitely trying to learn this and go to Bandimere drag strip at some point.


I have heard portions of this but not all of it in terms of launching. It's definitely worth trying though. Thanks for posting this
 
#25 ·
Re: MercRising...TP2

Best quick rundown of launching I've come across yet.


""There are two things you need to accomplish to get a good launch in the wrx.You need to launch under some boost, and you need to control the load on the engine so it stays near max torque rpm for the first few feet without banging the clutch and shock loading the drive train. There are several variations on the theme and each person will discribe it slightly differently but you want to engage the clutch quickly and smoothly so it slips just a bit with out just side stepping the clutch, or frying the clutch by holding it at partial engagement. The newer 2003 cars have a flow limit valve in the clutch line so you cannot just let up on the clutch and break things. It slows down the engagement just a bit. On the 2002's you'll have to do that yourself. One of the top WRX drag racers in the country describes the technique where you stage, and then let the clutch out a bit until you can tell it is just ready to engage (the friction point) is just a fraction of an inch away. Hold at a moderate fast rpm (everyone picks a slightly different number) I use about 3000 3500 rpm. Now comes the key to launching under boost. You can only build boost under no load conditions when the engine is accelerating at WOT . Just as the second yellow comes on, stomp the throttle to the floor from your stage rpm, the engine will take about a second to rev to red line. There is only .500 seconds between each of the yellow lights. Watch the tach and as the rpm swings by 5000-5500 rpm let up on the clutch quickly.(you can't wait for the green light you have to start leaving on the last yellow) Since you prepositioned the clutch right at the friction point there will be very little clutch motion, or shock, your engine will be very close to 5500 rpm when the clutch engages and under some boost because you floored the throttle a fraction of a second earlier. If you get all that coordinated you should have enough torque and energy stored in the flywheel so the engine does not bog. Hang on !!! you will be accelerating at over 1 G and hit red line in low in about 1.5 seconds. Be ready to shift !!!!! The biggest time loss that keeps folks at 2.x seconds is a slow shift, you have to shift quickly to get back under power in second gear before you complete the first 60'. Shift quickly and firmly but NOT VIOLENTLY !!! your not trying to break anything just be quick. I tell folks to hold the shifter in their fingers not to grab it like a club, this gives you more feel and makes you less inclined to try to rip the shift knob off the console. If you get it right its quite a ride."I did not create this, it is pulled from another website, but it's a very good how to on launching a WRX. Enjoy." wrxtuners

Definitely trying to learn this and go to Bandimere drag strip at some point.


I have heard portions of this but not all of it in terms of launching. It's definitely worth trying though. Thanks for posting this

El gusto es mio! BTW, nice choice on car, ha!
 
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