Installs, service, maintanance, repairs, custom work! In So Cal. - Page 102
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  1. #1011
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    Working on an FRS project car today. Installing a Jackson Racing dual radiator/oil cooler, RSR coil overs, Whiteline rear lower control arms, Whiteline subframe bushings, StopTech 355/345mm front and rear BBK, Rays wheels, Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires and more.








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  2. #1012
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    2016 WRX. Just completed an install of the new Whiteline lowering springs. With the addition of the wheels and tires the car has a new "attitude" and custom look. A cat back exhaust is next on the owners wish list of mods.


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  3. #1013
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    Another 2016 WRX. Cobb catted j-pipe and a Grimmspeed TMIC then the car is on the dyno. That is Bill Knose of Delicious Tuning performing his magic on our Mustang dyno. Have a great weekend!




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  5. #1014
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    This 2002 WRX had not run in over 3 years. We rebuilt the engine and turbo, serviced the transmission/diffs and got her up and running and back on the road. Smog certification was completed today. The car is now ready for pick up. Another Subaru taken off the back 40 and put back into use. Now the owner gets a second chance to enjoy the car again.




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  6. #1015
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    Me: The engine has low compression in Cylinder 4 and needs to be torn down for a rebuild.

    Insurance: How do you know that? There are other ways to determine loss of compression without disassembling the engine.

    Me: You obviously dont know anything about turbo Subarus. Please send me an inspector/adjuster so I can prove the issue and move forward.

    Insurance sends the adjuster/inspector who agrees with me when I perform a compression test in front of him. Cylinder #4 has less than 50psi compression.

    Results: Broken piston in cylinder #4. Its a Subaru you know.






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  7. #1016
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    Tearing down a 2007 STi for rebuild now. This engine has been previously rebuilt (by a past owner, not a shop). Every time we look at something, we discover another problem. The "plastic" TGV's were torqued to the heads soooo tight, we needed a gun to remove them. You can see they are warped from the pressure and temp. These were leaking. The turbo inlet tube was not properly fit and someone attempted to make it fit by wrapping another piece of silicone around the inlet tube (at the turbo) and then wrapping that with silicone tape. Major FAIL. The turbo was not bolted to the up pipe completely as there was no nut on the most forward stud. There was a large exhaust leak here too. The turbo oil return line is kinked badly enough to hinder flow, the turbo oil supply pipe is kinked/bent bad enough to hinder flow. So, this turbo may exhibit issues from low oil as well. What will we find next???.












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  8. #1017
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    Handed over the FRS project car yesterday. Now it has the brakes and handling to go with the Supercharged power. This car is CARB legal with all of its bolt-ons and power.


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  9. #1018
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    This EJ255 was pulled from an 07 Legacy SpecB. The engine was previously built by a well known So Cal performance shop located in Costa Mesa. A little heavy on the silicone for starters. Then there is the ridge wear in cylinder #4. It is HUGE. Over 0.010". Block was already bored out to 100mmm so it is now "junk". Crank is good. 3 Manley pistons are good, one is bad. The bushings in the Eagle H Beam rods are pounded flat. 2 buckets are cracked and someone decided to drill through the cam cover (rather than use a time sert) and run a 6mm nut and bolt through it. So, now we get to drill it out to 8mm, install a 8mm time sert, then drill out the 8mm time sert and install a 6mm time sert into the 8mm time sert in order to save the head.




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  10. #1019
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    Completed the engine and turbo rebuild in this 2006 Outback XT and the car is ready for pick up. Another engine rebuilt and the car going back to the owner. Working on two more engine builds now.




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  11. #1020
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    To show how little it takes... A customer came in complaining of a small oil leak. We could see a small amount of oil coming from between the engine and the transmission. Was it engine oil or transmission fluid? So, we pulled the trans to check. It was wet everywhere and we could not tell where the fluid had come from. So, we cleaned it up nice and shiny and replaced the rear oil separator plate just in case. Well, it took about 2 months, but the owner came back and the leak was still evident. So, we pulled the trans again. Now we found the culprit. Only 99.97% of the required silicone to seal the block at the crank seal was used. No damage to the crank or seal, but when we pulled the seal, the silicone did not penetrate all the way through the block seam. A drop of silicone equivalent to the size of a BB (or smaller) caused the leak. How did we fix it? Separate the block halves and reseal it all. A boat load of work for a leak the size of the ball in a ball point pen.


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