Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style) - Page 13
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Thread: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

  1. #121
    250bhp 3G WRX nsibanez's Avatar
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    Jan 2013
    9 times
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    They still need to own up to it and tux it regardless.
    Who here is actually within the warranty period? Probably no one...4 years, 48k...four years ago was 2011 as well...just saying

  2. #122
    0bhp 3G Impreza fr3d's Avatar
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    Feb 2017
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    I know this is an old thread but I found it incredibly useful in fixing my creaky clutch. Thanks to 08lrWRX!

    In case it helps, I documented the process:

    Last edited by fr3d; 02-05-2017 at 10:51 PM. Reason: embedding video

  3. #123
    800bhp 3G STI kingsalami's Avatar
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    Mar 2009
    OKC, OK
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    Excellent video!
    Very helpful.
    2009 WRX 5-door - Cobb catted DP/SPT CBE/Andy's OS tune/Process West TMIC/GT Spec EL header/Devil's Own DVC-30 Meth Injection/AEM CAI/STI Short Shifter/Group N tranny & motor mounts/2011 STI springs & Konis/22 & 22 sways/Rallitek end links/Whiteline chassis & suspension bushings

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  5. #124
    0bhp 3G Impreza Subiebeast75's Avatar
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    Apr 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08lrWRX View Post
    First off thanks to subytek for showing us the exact problem.

    So after having this noise for about 6 months and having the dealership never actually fix it because as most of you know, dealerships are worthless I finally took it upon myself. I tried the zip tie first but could never get it tight enough to stop the assembly from still moving. Even if I did I would not have felt very confident in the zip ties lasting very long since I have an aftermarket clutch with a stiff clutch pedal. I decided to try and figure out a way to get to the bracket without actually taking off the whole dashboard apart. It can be done it is just a tight fit trying to get back to the spots. I have big hands and were able to do it so anybody with normal size hands should have no problem.

    First step is to take off the windshield wipers. Just pop off the black cover and the nut is a 14mm. Take those off and put them to the side. Before you can take off the black cover you have to remove the two side pieces (forgot to take a pic of those) they are easy to pull off. The black cover is held on by 2 push clips on each side then 3 running along the middle. Once you get that off put it to the side. You can see the windshield wiper assembly on the right, we have to move that out of the way.

    Sorry for the blurry pics I was using my phone.

    It is held on by 3 10mm bolts. When you unbolt it you can either unplug it and remove it all the way or just flip it over (which is what i did)

    Behind that you can see the 2 spot welds. If you have somebody go inside and push the clutch you can see them move a tad bit. What I did first was drill those two spots to fit 3/16 rivet but after riveting it, it still moved and made a noise. So after that I drilled out the holes to 1/4 to fit a 1/4 nut/bolt with it. Don't worry about hitting anything behind it with the drill bit unless you go 10" in. After you drill its time to go inside the car.

    We only have to take 2 pieces of dash trim off. The first one is the one closet to the drivers door. Just pull from the bottom and it will pop right off.

    After that we have to remove the lower piece under the steering wheel. It has 2 screws on one side and clips on the other. Once you get the screws out just pry on the other side and it will pop off.

    Once you pop that off you have to remove the black backing plate that is held on by 2 10 mm (i think can't remember) bolts.

    After you remove that and you have drilled from the outside if you look up to the left side of the steering wheel you should see 2 holes with light passing through. (i forgot to take a picture of this but you'll be able to see the light and 2 holes).

    This is the hard part and it is going to hurt your hand. I used 2 1/4 bolts putting them through the inside to outside of firewall. I used one washer on each side and a locking nut on the outside. The hole on the left is much easier to get the bolt through then the one on the right. I used a short socket with tape on the inside to hold the bolt from falling out and a long extension. What I did was used the extension just to get the bolt through the hole. It didn't get it all the way so I had to push my hand up there and finish pushing it through. Had somebody on the outside put the washer and locking nut on. I used a flex ratcheting wrench to hold it on the inside since the socket/extension would not work. Tightened that as tight as we could get it. Now on to the hard side! The right side is a pain because the angle of the whole is facing the passenger seat. Right next to that metal bracket that holds the black piece their is a U shaped bracket that the brake is connected to that you can lead your extension/bolt through. I used the flex head so that when I got it through I could rotate it and push it through the hole. It takes some time so be patient cause it can be done. After you get it though put the washer and locking nut on the outside and have somebody tighten it while you hold it on the inside.

    The end result will look like this:



    I put 2 locking nuts on the outside just to make sure it did not go anywhere. After that, reinstall everything and be happy that your clutch now makes no noise and you can know that it is not being held on by zip ties or what ever else we can come up with.

    If you have any questions feel free to ask.
    I want to say thank you for this tip i have been looking for this for awhile now and shall be fixing my issue this weekend

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