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Thread: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

  1. #21
    350bhp 3G WRX tb16ua's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Yup... That's it. It's just as loud outside the car too.
    NOW - 2011 STi sedan - TP Stage 2

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    2500bhp Monster GravyRobber's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Quote Originally Posted by tb16ua View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GravyRobber View Post
    Hearing these positive reports makes me happy.
    Yea I'm glad it's working too... I'm sure when it gets warmer the small squeak that is left will go away. You in a cold climate?
    Sure am. I bounce between Chicago and SW Michigan. Too cold to work on the car right now.

  3. #23
    400bhp 3G STI Kurikaze's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    i wonder if i should re weld it :|
    08 WRB WRX Hatch (5 Speed) - SOLD
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  5. #24
    350bhp 3G WRX tb16ua's Avatar
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    Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    I'm gonna lose it. So the squeak came back gradually. So I retightened everything last night and actually added a 3rd bold in-between the other 2. It's quiet and then gradually starts again. I don't know what the hell else to do except rip the whole dash off and reweld it. Any one who has performed this and the squeak hasn't come back???
    NOW - 2011 STi sedan - TP Stage 2

    THEN - '10 EFI Logics Tuned WRX - Mustang Dyno 309 awhp / 348 tq @ 20psi

  6. #25
    400bhp 3G STI Kurikaze's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    My temp fix is to turn up my music :/

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    08 WRB WRX Hatch (5 Speed) - SOLD
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  7. #26
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Quote Originally Posted by tb16ua View Post
    I'm gonna lose it. So the squeak came back gradually. So I retightened everything last night and actually added a 3rd bold in-between the other 2. It's quiet and then gradually starts again. I don't know what the hell else to do except rip the whole dash off and reweld it. Any one who has performed this and the squeak hasn't come back???
    i just took my dash apart to fix this. if you look at the two spot welds in the OPs first post he has a third broken spot weld which was not repaired. it is on the lower left with only half of it being shown in the photo of the bolt/nuts installed. this is the one that was causing all the noise in my car. seeing how this one could not be repaired in this fashion (it is not reachable) i just took my dash out and am getting the whole bracket rewelded tomorrow as there is clear access to everything now and it's very clear what needs to be fixed. there is quite a bit of movement in the entire assembly and a horrible creaking/clicking/squeaking now with the clutch depressed.

    thank you for posting your update as this was my encouragement to not go this DIY route and just take the dash out (not too hard at all) and get it fixed proper (welded).

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  8. #27
    350bhp 3G WRX tb16ua's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Glad you are tackling this. Im sure it will work. Staying tuned.
    NOW - 2011 STi sedan - TP Stage 2

    THEN - '10 EFI Logics Tuned WRX - Mustang Dyno 309 awhp / 348 tq @ 20psi

  9. #28
    250bhp 3G WRX BabyDavid's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Hey folks.

    So on this thread it looks like several people have done this mod.


    For tb16ua the problem returned, alas :'( Monkiboy went big and tore down his dash with a welding torch I'm thinking I might try the minimalist nut/bolt approach and see if it holds. Surely half a dozen bolts and/or some rivets would be as solid as welding it? We all have different skills and it would probably take me a long weekend to open and reconstruct the dash :-\


    Therefore can anyone else who has done the minimalist fix report on its longevity?
    And how long would the 1/4 bolts need to be?


  10. #29
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    hey babydavid, has been a while since we've chatted! the first reason i ended up taking the dash out was because i could not reach with my big ol' hands were the OP did in the cabin firewall section. also, because the third spot weld that was cracked on mine and his (in the photo he provides in the beginning) requires dash removal to be repaired. this is the spot weld that was making a majority of the noise.

    i would try the nut/bolt "minimalist" way. you do not need to go through those exact locations (spot welds) and in fact it would be more securely held if you went to the left and right of them an inch or two as these are the ends of the cabin side firewall bracket and the most loose. three bolts should do it and then hopefully keep that third spot weld tight enough.

    use lock washers and nuts, though. and maybe a dab of threadlocker if possible to prevent what others are having problems with in regards to the setup becoming loose. be sure to use a large washer and a lock washer for even distribution of force on the engine firewall side as it is not flat in most of that area.

    you'll want bolts 1" to 1.75" long bolt depending on where you decide to drill.

    g'luck!

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  11. #30
    250bhp 3G WRX BabyDavid's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Salutations monki. I've been hibernating 'til spring. Hey, whatever became of your turtle friend?

    Quote Originally Posted by monkiboy View Post
    hey babydavid, has been a while since we've chatted! the first reason i ended up taking the dash out was because i could not reach with my big ol' hands were the OP did in the cabin firewall section. also, because the third spot weld that was cracked on mine and his (in the photo he provides in the beginning) requires dash removal to be repaired. this is the spot weld that was making a majority of the noise.

    i would try the nut/bolt "minimalist" way. you do not need to go through those exact locations (spot welds) and in fact it would be more securely held if you went to the left and right of them an inch or two as these are the ends of the cabin side firewall bracket and the most loose. three bolts should do it and then hopefully keep that third spot weld tight enough.

    use lock washers and nuts, though. and maybe a dab of threadlocker if possible to prevent what others are having problems with in regards to the setup becoming loose. be sure to use a large washer and a lock washer for even distribution of force on the engine firewall side as it is not flat in most of that area.

    you'll want bolts 1" to 1.75" long bolt depending on where you decide to drill.

    g'luck!

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