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Thread: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

  1. #1
    1300bhp 3G WRC 08lrWRX's Avatar
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    Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    First off thanks to subytek for showing us the exact problem.

    So after having this noise for about 6 months and having the dealership never actually fix it because as most of you know, dealerships are worthless I finally took it upon myself. I tried the zip tie first but could never get it tight enough to stop the assembly from still moving. Even if I did I would not have felt very confident in the zip ties lasting very long since I have an aftermarket clutch with a stiff clutch pedal. I decided to try and figure out a way to get to the bracket without actually taking off the whole dashboard apart. It can be done it is just a tight fit trying to get back to the spots. I have big hands and were able to do it so anybody with normal size hands should have no problem.

    First step is to take off the windshield wipers. Just pop off the black cover and the nut is a 14mm. Take those off and put them to the side. Before you can take off the black cover you have to remove the two side pieces (forgot to take a pic of those) they are easy to pull off. The black cover is held on by 2 push clips on each side then 3 running along the middle. Once you get that off put it to the side. You can see the windshield wiper assembly on the right, we have to move that out of the way.

    Sorry for the blurry pics I was using my phone.

    It is held on by 3 10mm bolts. When you unbolt it you can either unplug it and remove it all the way or just flip it over (which is what i did)



    Behind that you can see the 2 spot welds. If you have somebody go inside and push the clutch you can see them move a tad bit. What I did first was drill those two spots to fit 3/16 rivet but after riveting it, it still moved and made a noise. So after that I drilled out the holes to 1/4 to fit a 1/4 nut/bolt with it. Don't worry about hitting anything behind it with the drill bit unless you go 10" in. After you drill its time to go inside the car.

    We only have to take 2 pieces of dash trim off. The first one is the one closet to the drivers door. Just pull from the bottom and it will pop right off.



    After that we have to remove the lower piece under the steering wheel. It has 2 screws on one side and clips on the other. Once you get the screws out just pry on the other side and it will pop off.




    Once you pop that off you have to remove the black backing plate that is held on by 2 10 mm (i think can't remember) bolts.



    After you remove that and you have drilled from the outside if you look up to the left side of the steering wheel you should see 2 holes with light passing through. (i forgot to take a picture of this but you'll be able to see the light and 2 holes).



    This is the hard part and it is going to hurt your hand. I used 2 1/4 bolts putting them through the inside to outside of firewall. I used one washer on each side and a locking nut on the outside. The hole on the left is much easier to get the bolt through then the one on the right. I used a short socket with tape on the inside to hold the bolt from falling out and a long extension. What I did was used the extension just to get the bolt through the hole. It didn't get it all the way so I had to push my hand up there and finish pushing it through. Had somebody on the outside put the washer and locking nut on. I used a flex ratcheting wrench to hold it on the inside since the socket/extension would not work. Tightened that as tight as we could get it. Now on to the hard side! The right side is a pain because the angle of the whole is facing the passenger seat. Right next to that metal bracket that holds the black piece their is a U shaped bracket that the brake is connected to that you can lead your extension/bolt through. I used the flex head so that when I got it through I could rotate it and push it through the hole. It takes some time so be patient cause it can be done. After you get it though put the washer and locking nut on the outside and have somebody tighten it while you hold it on the inside.

    The end result will look like this:

    Inside



    Outside



    I put 2 locking nuts on the outside just to make sure it did not go anywhere. After that, reinstall everything and be happy that your clutch now makes no noise and you can know that it is not being held on by zip ties or what ever else we can come up with.

    If you have any questions feel free to ask.

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    1300bhp 3G WRC therussiann's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    nice il have to try this my just started squicking
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    needs to be updated

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    1300bhp 3G WRC 08lrWRX's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    hope this helped out some people. 85 views and 1 comment.

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    2500bhp Monster TougeMonster's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Nice write up +1 for you
    "It doesn't matter if your car is the fastest on the race-track. It's a different story on the streets, your car has to be fun, fast, and safe in any road condition." --- Keiichi Tsuchiya

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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Good job coming up with a solution on your own for that! Never would have thought of this approach. I may just have to pop off the windshield wipers and have a look myself. Thanks!
    -Steve
    2009 WRB WRX hatch (+1 gear)

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    2500bhp Monster chanke4252's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    i can't believe subaru thought those two little spot welds were adequate. I'm VERY happy that someone found a way to do this without having to take the whole dash apart though.

    Mine just started [size=12px]squeaking [/size]tonight, and while I'm not sure if it's the weld issue due to the fact that it's cold outside and it's never done it before, at least I know it can be discovered and fixed without having to tear apart the dash, only to be left with a squeek fixed, and an additional 800 rattles in the dash.

    having not looked at the problem area yet, i have a couple questions for you:
    1. did this do anything for any clicking you had in your pedal (if you had any)?
    and
    2. did you use flat washers on the underside of the bracket (the cabin side, not the windshield washer side), or is it curved or something in such a way that would prevent that? I'd like to make any potential repair as robust as possible.

    major +1 for you and subytek.
    08 A4 2.0t Quattro 6mt
    09 WRX (sold)

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    1300bhp 3G WRC 08lrWRX's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    I had the click sound but the dealership fixed that with lubing everything I believe. Think it is the cruise control sensor not positive though.

    I used flat washers on both sides. It is flat on both sides so their is no need for a curved washer.

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    2500bhp Monster GravyRobber's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Subscribed. I'll probably do this just as a preventative measure.

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    200bhp 3G WRX homer_atl's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    08lrWRX nice writeup. Can you describe your original problem?
    I have an issue on my 09 wrx, but havent gone to the dealership or really investigated it yet. I get a little squeaking noise during idle. It almost sounds like a belt squeak, but when i press the clutch pedal, it goes away. It can't be heard unless the radio is turned off. Is this the same issue you had? BTW, I had my motor replaced at 14k. I'm about 20k now. Not positive if i they replaced the belts, but it never squeaked before.
    '09 WRX Hatch, 18x8 Rota Grids, Ground controls, Koni shocks, C-spec rear sway bar, TP Stage 1, TWM SS, Painted Tails, CS Style Kit


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    350bhp 3G WRX tb16ua's Avatar
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    Re: Clutch squeak fix without taking the whole dash apart (nut/bolt style)

    Homer.. Thats not the same issue. This is when you press on the clutch and it sounds like you are walking around in an old haunted house... The pedal will creak and squeak and drive you up the wall. Its due to the 2, yes a whole 2, spot welds holding the clutch assembly to the fire wall breaking.
    NOW - 2011 STi sedan - TP Stage 2

    THEN - '10 EFI Logics Tuned WRX - Mustang Dyno 309 awhp / 348 tq @ 20psi

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