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Discussion Starter #1
so i was looking for a DIY oil change and couldent find one so decided to right one up

here is what i used to change the OIL (not the tools)


the skid plate has 3 bolts and 4 plastic clips 2 on the bottom back of skid plate and 2 on the sides (here is 1 bolt in the back of skid plate and 2 clips)


the clips on the back of the skid plate ( i just pulled them of easy and simple)


here are the clips on the side of the skid plate betwen the weal and the fender (here 1 on each side) u can use a flat head to take them out


this are the bolts on the front of the skid plate (there are 2 of them 1 on each side left and right)


after you got the skid plate of here is how the car looks ( on the left u see the bolt that drains the oil and on the right u see the oil filter)


take the bolt that drains the oil out and drain it


take the filter out and replace it (here in red) ((((( oil filters are hand tightend and what i do is fill it with a bit oil 1 time and use a bit of oil on the outside rim of the filter)


here is a pic of the old filter the oil drain bolt the m20 crush washer and the tool i used to take the filter of
 

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I had to search high and low for a tool that could reach in the exhaust piping to remove the OEM filter and that tool you have is the same one I got from Car Quest.
 

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you can get those filter wrenches that you can put on ratchet extensions, they work really well. I use one of those.

Are those crush washers the exact same size as the OEM one? I re-used the one that I had on there before due to the fact that I was in Indianapolis and I will NOT go to what is now the only subaru dealer within driving distance (tom wood, blows balls) for anything. I ended up re-using the original washer and using a purolator pureONE filter (I would have preferred to use the old subaru filters, but again, I hate the dealer). I really prefer to replace it each time rather than risk an oil leak.
 

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you can get those filter wrenches that you can put on ratchet extensions, they work really well. I use one of those.

Are those crush washers the exact same size as the OEM one? I re-used the one that I had on there before due to the fact that I was in Indianapolis and I will NOT go to what is now the only subaru dealer within driving distance (tom wood, blows balls) for anything. I ended up re-using the original washer and using a purolator pureONE filter (I would have preferred to use the old subaru filters, but again, I hate the dealer). I really prefer to replace it each time rather than risk an oil leak.
They have a 6 pack with crush rings on subaru genuine parts:

https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/index.php?cPath=33_92
 

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nice write up!
I bought a decent amount of filters from SGP. And the black Tokyo Roki filters is what you want. (They can also be found in larger quantities on ebay). The new blue Subaru filters arent as good.
 

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nice write up!
I bought a decent amount of filters from SGP. And the black Tokyo Roki filters is what you want. (They can also be found in larger quantities on ebay). The new blue Subaru filters arent as good.
Yah, a comparison I saw between the tokyo roki filters and the purolator pureone filters showed them to be pretty similar, with the tokyo roki filters having better gaskets, or more gasket material or something, but the pureones having like 3-4 more pleats in the filter material. I have no pproblem with using pureone filters instead, but I figure the subaru filter would be better for any warranty claims that would come up. I wasn't going to, but I just ordered a pack of 6 as I also wanted to order the trunk liner protector thing and the wrx badge for the front grille that mine didn't come with (damn sport grille).
 

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I just did mine last week, except I replaced the drain plug with a fumoto valve...no more bitching about getting the bolt off :)
 

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i put in a magnetic drain plug last week so i can monitor how much metal shavings i am getting and it prevents that metal from being recirculated as well. a worthy investment for your investment. there are also re-useable magnets out there that can be stuck onto the filter and you just put it on the next filter when you change out your filter and oil.

if anyone hasn't done an oil change on a subie before... get ready when you pop out that M20 drain plug because that oil comes out "fast and furious", so use a big open top catch pan! ;) i have another oil catch pan that i have used for years which is low profile and has a funnel that scews onto it but the oil comes out so fast that it overflows that funnel jig time.
 

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i put in a magnetic drain plug last week so i can monitor how much metal shavings i am getting and it prevents that metal from being recirculated as well. a worthy investment for your investment. there are also re-useable magnets out there that can be stuck onto the filter and you just put it on the next filter when you change out your filter and oil.

if anyone hasn't done an oil change on a subie before... get ready when you pop out that M20 drain plug because that oil comes out "fast and furious", so use a big open top catch pan! ;) i have another oil catch pan that i have used for years which is low profile and has a funnel that scews onto it but the oil comes out so fast that it overflows that funnel jig time.
I bought a plastic catch pan from Walmart that's like the size of a turkey roasting pan. Figured i'd need more space than with my Focus...just used to drain the oil right into the oil eater box with no problem.
 

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I've been using a bucket lately, ghetto style. I don't spill as much because the lips are so high. I would invariably spill or get some splashing with my oil catch pan that I used to use because it sits so low to the ground. I'd rather not have to clean oil off the garage floor. I asked for a fumoto valve for xmas, so hopefully someone gets me one. Will make it a lot easier, though also makes me want to get a skit plate a little more than I wanted one before.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so whas the wright up evry1 get what to do now cuz that was my goal :) ((( ps som1 gave me -karma THem busteds)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
lol sweet ty :) i just hate doing something to my car technical and not having any clue as to what im doing
 

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i put in a magnetic drain plug last week so i can monitor how much metal shavings i am getting and it prevents that metal from being recirculated as well. a worthy investment for your investment. there are also re-useable magnets out there that can be stuck onto the filter and you just put it on the next filter when you change out your filter and oil.

if anyone hasn't done an oil change on a subie before... get ready when you pop out that M20 drain plug because that oil comes out "fast and furious", so use a big open top catch pan! ;) i have another oil catch pan that i have used for years which is low profile and has a funnel that scews onto it but the oil comes out so fast that it overflows that funnel jig time.
I also have the oil filter magnet. However, I have some doubts as most of the metal is aluminum.
I have a pan that is about 1.25-1.5 feet across and 3.5"-4" tall. It's good enough for my cousin's S2K which uses 5.5 quarts of oil.
 

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Very nice write-up! Every time I changed my oil, I was meaning to do a write-up with pics for the forum, but I didn't have enough time to take all the pictures while doing the change before I had to drive the vehicle soon after. Here are some tips:

-Oil-Tite M20 crush rings are the OEM size for the drain plug, and they can be bought at AutoZone if they're not sold out.
-Usually you can twist the oil filter off with your hand(s) assuming you have decent grip and leverage, if not, you can buy a generic oil filter wrench at AutoZone or local auto parts store for like $7.
-You're going to need an oil drain pan or two - I literally have three, one for oil, one for oil filter, and one small one as backup.
-When removing the drain plug, a wrench is needed for initial loosening, then twist by hand slowly and make sure you are wearing some kind of latex gloves. As you are draining the oil from a warm engine, the oil will be HOT and it WILL get on your hands. Have disposable towels or paper towels ready.
-Also a good idea to buy oil drain mats (1 or 2 will do fine). Only $10 or $12 each, they are re-usable, and they are highly effective at absorbing excess oil if you should have any accidents. Nobody wants dirty motor oil soaking into the driveway or garage floor.

As always, have an empty container ready to store the old motor oil. Drop off the used motor oil at a local auto parts store...MOST AutoZone stores have free oil drop-off. Do NOT pour it into the sink. The Oil Ferry will put $5 under your pillow for doing the right thing.
 

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As always, have an empty container ready to store the old motor oil. Drop off the used motor oil at a local auto parts store...MOST AutoZone stores have free oil drop-off. Do NOT pour it into the sink. The Oil Ferry will put under your pillow for doing the right thing.
absolutely! I'm shocked to see what ppl do w/ used motor oil. People by my fiancee's neighborhood actually dump it into the sewage drainage. I usually use old windshield washer fluid bottles, the 5Q motor oil bottles, or old laundry detergent bottles. As for using drain mats, I didnt know there was anything like that. I use old newspaper. And in case any spillage does happen, kitty litter.
 

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I use this:



The state of Hawaii encourages people to use this as it will probably end up in h-power garbage incinerator. It has absorbant materials inside so you can just toss the box after you're done.
 

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I always take it to autozone or pep boys or something. most of those places do take oil for disposal. I believe there are some places that do oil recycling rather than just disposal. Either way you go about it though, it's all better than dumping it down the drain. Still, I feel like used motor oil is an untapped resource and that there are a lot of uses out there that just haven't been seriously pursued.
 

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How tight are you suppose to tighten the drain plug? Im scared to over tighten. I have a small leak from my drain plug even with a new washer. I guess ill try to tighten it some more tomorrow.
 

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I tighten mine down reasonably tight. Obviously I don't crank it super hard, but enough to where I won't worry about it backing out down the road. I'm sure there's a recommended torque spec for it, though I've never ever torqued any car's oil drain bolt down to a specific spec. You'll know when the crush washer is "crushed" and the bolt quickly becomes a lot harder to turn. That's usually when I stop.

Make sure your washer is facing the correct way. The flat, wider side of the washer should be against the drain plug itself. The other side should be against the oil pan. I always clean my drain bolt off when I do oil changes so that no grime gets in between the washer and the bolt to cause a leak.
 
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