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Discussion Starter #1
Well this thing is called the Black Cat by everyone due to the ridiculously bad luck I have had with it, its been shot, hit and run'd, tboned, deer'd, turbos exploding pretty much everything.


But on to the good stuff:
Engine:
PRE Dynotune- 370whp @18psi---355.5whp @17
TurboXS CAI w/heat wrap and K&N Filter
RacerX V1 FMIC- coated black
AVO turbo inlet 2.4"
Perrin Parallel Fuel Rails
DW 850cc Injectors
TurboXS RFL BOV
Tomioka TD05 20g w/ 8cm hotside
3" Catless downpipe w/ full wrap
3" turboback Tanabe Concept G dual exhaust.
Grimmspeed Uppipe
Grimmspeed ECBS
Tial 44mm EWG
Grimmspeed Dump tube
Full TGV Delete
Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic Spacers
Tomioka Air Pump delete
M2 Performance EL Header with full wrap
Perrin Lightened Crank Pulley
Excedy 12lb flywheel
Walbro 255 fuel pump
NGK Iridium 1 step colder spark plugs

Drivetrain:
Excedy stage 2 clutch
Rallitek f/r shifter bushings
Kartboy short shifter
Redline Transmission fluid


Suspension:
Rallitek 22mm front sway, 19mm rear w/ HD end links
BC BR Coil Overs
Ebay front and rear strut tower braces
DIY Transmission mount
Drag DR-31 18x9 +20
Federal 225/45/18 FTMFW!!!!


Interior:


Prosport Evo Digital boost gauge
Prosport Evo Digital Oil Pressure Gauge
Prosport Evo Wideband AFR Gauge
Homemade Carbon fiber vent gauge pod
SMY Cluster
Scanguage 2 mounted in cubbyhole
LED interior lights
LED red footwell kit and cubbyhole
LED Rear cargo light bar
Cobra PA/CB
Escort 9500Ix on Blendmount mirror mount w/ mirrortap
Pioneer AVH P4100 double din dvd head unit (w/switch to play dvds while driving)
JL Audio Component speakers and tweeters
Infinity Kappa speakers in the rear doors
Kenwood 500w 10" sub (In sub box hard mounted to trunk floor)
JVC 400w amp (hard mounted under trunk floor with all wires tucked and hidden)
Dynomat in doors, hatch, and entire trunk


Exterior:
DDM 5k HID lows
Sylvania Silverstar Ultra highs/fogs
LED reverse lights
LED license plate lights
Red/blacked Tail lights
SPT Grill
Perrin 2" antenna
KS Tech hood scoop delete
Premium body kit
Real valence cut for dual exhaust
Black brake calipers
10% tint
JNA front lip
Rallitek Front license delete
Homemade front license relocate
Debadged
Hella Supertones relayed to battery
Dzus self ejecting body fasteners for front bumper
DTRL delete
Rally Armor mud flaps


Future Mods:
Stronger Block
Motor, tranny, diff mounts, bushings, subframe braces, control arms ect ect ect
Upgraded front brakes and rotors (havent decided yet, will when they wear out)
White line Subframe Lockdown
White line Anti Lift kit zero offset
STI drivetrain swap, inc brakes. (or maybe PPG's?)
Stainless brake lines
black exhaust
Seibon carbon fiber hood, fenders, doors, and hatch
Goodyear g forces

On Order/Going to Order
New intercooler pipes, powdercoated black
New front bumper
New passenger fender liner
Re carpet trunk area
Front/rear Primitive Racing Skidplates
Grillcraft lower grill.
Fender pull/flare
Shorter SS shifter
TWM knob













New bumper fasteners


 

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Discussion Starter #2
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Installed some self ejecting body fasteners, to get rid of my fender gap, here is a minor diy, if you need an extensive one just ask.


Okay- here's a link that has the parts list and a couple more pictures of the car, I would also recommend getting both 1/2" and 1/4" long rivets (in the 1/8" size)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2022903
all can be had for $45.
heres what they look like assembled


Im not showing how to disassemble the bumper, there are plenty of other resources for that via google.
Now I found (the hard way) that on the frontmost plate you want the spring receptical that you have riveted in place spaced back, like how you see in the pictures, and the rearmost plate you want the spring receptacle against the plate, all it takes it flipping the s.r. on one side or another and riveting in place.
This will allow the fasteners to lock properly.

Now in the next part, you need to place the plate, I did it so that the edge of the plate was lined up with the edge of the oem bumper fastener thingy that your attaching to, and I used vice grips to hold it in place for drilling.

DRILL BABY DRILL



drilled and riveted




now repeat for the 2nd bracket, and then do the same on the other side of the car.



before



after








some other pics of the car now that its clean





 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Haha thank you sir, trying to be a lil different from everyone.
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

btw, fastwrx just dropships it's LEDs from V-LED.

And, wait, you're straight pipe to the rear? Dumping without a muffler, that must sound nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Is there a price difference?
And yep, there is a resonator, but thats it, no cats, no muffler, I love how it sounds and get random compliments all the time! WSP pulls me over more for the lights, never for the exhaust.
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

I've considered that setup myself, maybe in December. I don't know if there is a price difference (probably), I know V-LED runs a 15% coupon regularly. Just saying, if you have a problem with something then there is no middle man to deal with for customer service.
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Did you put a big ass hole in the bumper for the fasteners to fit?

Sent from my SGH-T959 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Yes, because the "hoops" on the bumper were all broken and it was literally falling off, I had the bumper held on by zip ties. I liked this the most over the toggle clamps that most people use.
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

glad to see a new build journal, thank you for sharing!

i dont understand why you chose the installation method you did for those dzus fasteners.

- you have the oem brackets that are a piece of nonfunctional junk for those of us that are into motorsports, work on our cars quite a bit, etc.
- in order to fix this most of us use some sort of clamp/fastener
- you decide to mount your fastener onto the nonfunctional piece of junk

the proper way to have these mounted would be to remove the oem bumper cover stay brackets and mount them to the fender-lip. that's what i intend to do with the self-eject dzus i picked up a few weeks ago to replace my toggle latches.

now that you've already installed them there, perhaps go about trying to reinforce the stay brackets with rivets or screws for additional hold but the better option would be to eliminate any unnecessary attachment points that are prone to failure.

also, pegasus sells the actual dzus weld plate with the spring receptacle pre-installed for $2.49 vs what looks like the moroso you used with the separate spring that costs ~$22.

shoot me a PM if you need any more info but i'll have the ones i picked up installed in about two weeks or so with photos in my build thread for reference, if needed.

thanks again for the share and photos, look forward to your progress!
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Looks good. Thanks for posting the above info about the dzus fasteners. As an autocrosser with a taste for cones, I've been having issues with the oem clips and think I'll be doing a similar implementation soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

Monki-
I chose it because my brackets arent failing- the fasters on the bumper itself was, plus I reasoned the fender was only sheetmetal, and the brackets would just bend it, or at least wiggle it back and forth until the rivets were loose of fender bent, I can literally bend that fender lip with my finger and thumb,I really cant imagine it holding my bumper on securely with the two plates, there isnt enough material to hold it securely. With the oem bracket, its fastened to the whole fender lip, and therefor much stronger. They are also bolted to your headlight bucket( or maybe a bracket they attach to) and are pretty darn secure.
Now if and when the brackets start to come loose, if you look at how its fastened, its a small screw/bolt that expands the plastic rivet on the other side of the fender lip, if this breaks I will used bolts in the same place as the oem rivet which will hold it in place, and I can also brace the piece on sheetmetal behind the fender if need be. Im kinda going with a "if it aint broke dont fix it" mentality on this.
One last thing to note, our bumpers suck ass and are prone to cracking, mine alread has 5 different cracks in it that I need to fix, with the weld plates located further into the bumper, using the oem bracket, and away from the edge, the bumper is less likely to crack due to it flexing from me scraping or from driving at high speed. (Ill be doing some fiberglass patching next and do a write up on that next weekend I think)


From what I could find, Dzus does not make a plate like the morosos that I have, they do not have a 90* bend in them which was ideal for the fitment I wanted, and they are not pre drilled, not as wide (which means more torsional stress on whatever they are welded/riveted to) and are mostly meant to be welded on. The morosos also have holes in them which clear the backs of the rivets I have fastened to my bumper, which otherwise would butt up against the plate. Finally, I did not want them pre installed because if you look at how your bumper skin aligns with the oem fastener, the gap varies from front to rear, and if you take a close look at my pictures, you will see that my spring recepticals are spaced differently, the front needs to be deeper, the back needs to be flush with the back of the plate. So maybe I spent more money, but I saved myself a lot of time, and time is money as they say, plus, I have enough spare parts I can do another six set ups like this if I want Otherwise I would have had to perfectly space my brackets further back, which would have made it hard to fasten it to the bumper using the oem bracket due to the way its molded,
Take a close look at my pictures, and at your car, and you will see what I mean. I spent hours of time researching and measuring to get this perfect.
Thank you for the input! I like to hear other ideas/ opinions to give me inspiration for the project, and to help me find either a better way of doing things, and thank you for the kudos!
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

thanks for the notes and input. i have a lot of questions about your above post that doesn't make sense to me but i'll take the bumper off again, review, and see if i can make sense of it prior to reply. i'll just keep it to PM to not clog up your thread. thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

No problem man, it was super late and I was kinda tired posting that so I am not surprised a lot came out as gibberish, I would be happy to clarify anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

thanks brotha :) thats what im going for!
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

You know how the RacerX Fmic piping under the bumper beam sticks out past the splash guards.. do you have a problem with scraping since your car is lowered or even before the drop?
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

not at all, its still higher than the body of your car, you would literally rip your bumper off before you did damage to that bad boy.
 

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Re: Dwhite's build journal- The Black Cat

not at all, its still higher than the body of your car, you would literally rip your bumper off before you did damage to that bad boy.
Thanks I think I'm going to get that front mount for sure than.
 
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