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Eg33 3g wrx

5K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  sub2010ss 
#1 · (Edited)
Well this forum seems to be Dead :cry: its a shame because i learned alot from you guys in the beginning and used to contribute alot when my car was still operational.

here is my Previous Holet HX35 Build

As some of you may know the EJ spun a rod bearing :embarrassed: Fortunately it was payed off so i had time to let it sit and Ponder what to do with the car. I wanted to rebuild it, but the thought of all that money and then being back at the same power level with not a whole lot of head room to expand was pretty daunting. So i was thinking about returning it back to stock and trading it in, then the notion to do a engine swap dawned on me. I was thinking of going with a non subaru power plant at first (LS,2JZ,???) then i stumbled onto a Deal i couldn't pass up. A EG33, it is essentially a 22B same bore, rod, and stroke but with 2 more cylinders hanging off of the front. it was a no brainer i drove to NYC and picked the thing up for $750 Cash.



the Seller said it only had 32.5K Kilometers (20K Miles :chuncky:) on it when they removed it from the car in Japan. so i got it home on the engine stand and the first thing i did was pull the valve covers and much to my surprise.





The great thing about this swap is their really isn't whole lot of fabrication required. it lands on all of the factory engine mounts and Bolts to the stock trans i had it sitting in the car later that Day.



And it Fits under the stock Hood with plenty of room to clear.




Although their isn't a Whole of of room Between the core support and the Engine where the Radiator used to be.


 
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#2 ·
Something like this is worth visiting this forum for! I look forward to more of this.
 
#4 ·
thats pretty damn cool! i have a friend that has a svx with a 5 speed swap near me. that 3.3 engine sounds sick! props for a unique build. do you think the tranny and ecu,etc will work ok??
 
#6 · (Edited)
tranny will work fine. already had it bolted up no problem, the ecu on the other hand is a different story

It has a Engine harness but was cut at the fire wall when the engine was taken out of the car. Instead of trying to find a SVX Ecu and splice it in and then being limited by the stock ecu or a chip. I have decided to go with Megasquirt. or shall i say a Microsquirt and make my own Harness



It only has 35 Pins, but here is what matters. It Has 4 Ignition Drivers, 2 Fuel drivers, 2 VR/Hall Inputs for Cam & Crank Positioning as well as all the common inputs needed (ECT, IAT, MAP, WBO2, ....) plus a few to spares if i decide i want to run a flex fuel sensor, or anything else imaginable really. The Microsquirt is water tight with the AMP Seal connector and was designed for Motorcyles/snow mobiles in mind, but i have seen them Run Turbo LS Swaps Before so im sure it will do the job and if down the road i need to upgrade their always the MS3, MS3x, and the MSPro for even more input and outputs


For Igntion Spark A,B,C Logic Signals are each going to drive 2 coils on companion cylinders to make 6 Coils total (COP Waste Spark)
For Fuel it will be Split down the crank, Bank 1 Will be all the Cylinders on the Passenger Side and Bank 2 Will be all the cylinders on the Drivers Side.

Their are 3 Positioning sensors on this engine but only 2 are going to be used. Their is a Single Tooth Cam Sensor on the Drivers Cam and 2 Crank sensors up front under the Alternator. One Has 12 teeth evenly spaced and the 2nd is a 3 2 1 wheel but we can ignore that becuase it is not needed. Im Going to Use the 12 Tooth Crank wheel to Decode Engine Speed and Crank angle and the Single tooth Cam sensor will give me Location Of TDC and the ECU will use that for Firing of Injectors and Ignition

the MicroSquirt also has CAN and im hoping to be able to wire that in and Have it Run the Stock Instrument Panel fingers crossed, if not i can always get a Racepak
 
#9 · (Edited)
Started on the Wiring this weekend, well not really just ended up having time to remove the dash and get the old harness out of the way. Also figured out where Im going to tap some of the stand alone harness into the Factory Wiring and get a feel for how much space i have to work with back their.



Also found that my Pedal Box was cracked in 2 spots.

that is right below the windshield at the Firewalls inward lip.


and the second is the Spot weld in the Rain Tray


the spot weld in the rain tray, i think im just going to drill out and Through Bolt. But the Cracked Bracket on the inside, i think im going to do a few stitch welds up the side & across the top of that plate to stiffen it up and then a weld across that crack.


I also picked up a 05 Cable Throttle Pedal and mounted it to the factory pedal plate with 2 new holes and hardware. may end up welding the 2 together Permanently more a more solid mount. but got to make sure cable fitment and alignment is ok first. overall pedal placement is pretty good, cant really see in the pic but just needs to come out a little bit closer to the driver and up just a bit. will do those changes on the pedal end by heating up and bending the rod.


unfortunately the cable hadn't come in yet, so im not sure if it is going to be able to fit without binding. Because the hole is partially behind the brake booster. if not i may be converting to Manual Brakes with a brake booster eliminator and a properly sized master ?
 
#10 ·
Things like this is what I miss most about the site. And I agree I learned alot from everyone on here as far as my build went also.
 
#13 ·
Not Yet, been busy around the holidays and haven't had a chance to make it down to work on my car

you will have to change out your coil packs to a logic coil to run a megasquirt which means either EJ coils which should bolt right up to the valve cover or like im doing LS coils remote mounted then making my own spark plug wires.

i have everything to wire it up just need to get a free weekend to work on it. but as soon as i do ill post up.

if you have any questions you can email me Johnt2k7@gmail.com
 
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