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Here's my first stab at a DIY. It was pretty straightforward, just kinda awkward to get to alot of the bolts. I would rate this a 2/10 difficulty. This was done on a 2008 WRX Sedan non-premium. ***The following is just one way of doing this, I'm sure it could be done differently. I am not responcible for any damages or injuries recieved from attempting this modification using this guide.***

Reccomended tools:
14mm socket
12mm socket
Ratchet w/extension
Breaker bar
12mm ratcheting open end(this would make it ALOT easier, but not necessary)
Flatblade screwdriver
Rubber/shop gloves
Shop light is also helpful
Something to lay on if you don't want to lay on the cool concrete
Floor Jack


1. To start, but the car up on either ramps, a lift, or jackstands. I used a set of ramps(and used the 2x4 to hold the ramp from slidding forward when I drove up the ramps). Make sure you chock the rear tires as well just in case the parking brake doesn't hold. Alternatly, you could use a jack, lift the car up, and then set it on the ramps. If you are using jackstands make sure they are placed properly and the car is stable. DO NOT JUST USE THE JACK! ALWAYS USE JACKSTANDS!!!



2. There is a cross brace near the back of the transmission right below the shifter bushing that we are going to be replacing. There are four 14mm bolts that need to be removed.




3. There are two 14mm bolts that now need to be removed from the rear transmission mount. The driver's side bolt is somewhat easy to get to with an extension, but the passenger side bolt is a PITA. Here is where that ratcheting open end would be VERY helpful. BE careful, as the trans is dropping as you do this, and once it's free it will drop a bit. It doesn't appear to be damaging, just be prepared for it. You will either need a friend or to use the jack when you go to put this all back together to hold the trans up while starting the bolts.


4. There are two 12mm bolts that are holding the exhaust shield to the cross peice that we need to remove. Again, the ratcheting open end would be VERY helpful. If you don't have that, just be patient and eventually you will get the bolts removed. Lastly the wire going to the o2 sensor is clipped into the cross bracket. You need to just pull up with a bit of force to pull the clip out of the cross brace.

5. Now you can pull the cross brace out. You kind of need to twist/finaggle it out. Just be careful going around the o2 sensor. HARD PART DONE!



6. Take the 12mm open end and remove the nut holding the shifter bushing on. This was very easy for me, as it was not overly tightened. Once the nut is off remove the metal plate that is against the bushing. Just remember how it looked when you took it off. There were no cables/wires attached to it, even though it has notches as though it might.



7. Slide the bushing off the bolt now. Here you have two options. On RalliTEK's slideshow of the install it shows using a razor blade and shaving off one side of the bushing. The bushing is like this I-I . I just used a flatblade screw driver and pryed the bushing out. It came out relativly easy. You can pull this whole thing down quite a bit to gain better access to it.





8. Now you can see all the nuts/bolts/hardware/tools involved in this install.


9. Now you can put the new bushings in. I just dry fit them once to make sure that they were going to go in easy. They definetly did. Take them out, here is where you want to wear rubber gloves if you have them. Using the supplied grease, apply liberally to the inside edges of the bushings where they will contact the metal. Also, rub a decent amount on the bolt that the bushings came off of. This stuff gets everywhere with stringy tails, so just use a paper towel when all done and wipe up the mess.




10. Once you get the bushings back into the metal piece slide it back up onto the bolt. Put the plate back up against the bushings and then tighten the night. Does not need to be cranked to the max, I don't know if there is a torque spec, I just went a little over hand tight.

11. Slide the cross brace back over the transmission piece and start the four 14mm bolts on the sides. Make sure that the heat shield for the exhaust is in the right spot. Also make sure to put the little clip back in for the o2 sensor.

12. Tighten the four cross support bolts hand tight evenly at first. Then start cranking them down. Again, I don't know any torque specs but I just tightened them to where I felt comfortable.

13. Now either with a friend or a jack, have them hold up the trans, pushing it upwards towards the car. Start the 14mm bolts and then tighten them down. Again, do this evenly and then tighten to your desired tightness level.

14. Clean up your work area, make sure nothing is underneath the car. Take the car down off of the ramp/lift/jack stands and you're done!
I noticed the difference right away. Shifts feel more "solid" and less "spongy". Overall took me about an hour total from start to finish. Hope this helps anyone have anything to add feel free to add it!
 

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Good write up. ;D
 

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Just a side note...This can be done without taking that piece of metal off that is partially blocking the bushings....Makes the install a little more tricky but after 20 minutes of figuring out how to maneuver my hands in there I got it. Also, I spent more time trying to get the stock bushings out thinking they were two separate pieces only to find out they were one....Excellent write up!!!
 

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When i did mine, i also did the rear bushing (kartboy) and i also did it ith out removeing the cross brase. This is a really good write up and i recomend everyone to remove the brace, it will make it easier to get to the front bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
great writeup..... you beat me to it! i have a set sitting in my console waiting to be installed.
Well if you have anything to add to it feel free! I am always open to suggestions...like I said, this was just ONE way of doing it. It might not be the easiest, but it was the way that I got to work. I will probably do a DIY on any other parts that I get.
 

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Nice write up man!
I installed the front/rear kartboy bushings on my car & the inst. I followed didnt show removing the brace, I wish I knew about that, looks like it makes things a lot easier.

Also when popping the stock front bushing out, I just pushed the bushing against the bolt and it popped right out.
 

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I just installed the cobb bushings. I didn't remove the brace. It's a tight spot to work in but it can be done. I unscrewed the bushing, cut one side of the bushing off, and then used the bolt that the bushing was mounted on to push the bushing off. Putting the new bushing on was easy. I'm just glad I didnt' have to mess with that support piece.
 

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Followed your write up when I install my KB shifter + bushing - wish you had better focus on your shots though! I took some pics too (of similar shots).. plus the rear bushing. I can post them up too if you want...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
i did mine today and i didnt have to remove those two bolts to lower the trans i just pushed the o2 wirres out of the way and it pulls right out no problem
Glad to hear you guys are able to follow the DIY somewhat. :) I just like having alot of room to work with, that's why I removed the brace. If anyone has pictures that are clearer feel free to upload them!
 

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Here's some pictures of the rear bushing install. Had some questions of the rear, so I'll just add to this write-up.

I have other pics of the install, but I think everything was already covered. If wanted, I can post up more pictures of the front bushing and the short shifter itself.

Stock rear bushing:



Unscrew those 2 bolts and remove the stock bushing

Here's what the KB rear bushing looks like:


Use a lot of grease to help you slide the new bushing back on. It a lot of effort for me to put the new bushing on.

Here's the new bushing installed, just before putting the bolts back in


Screw the 2 bolts back in and you're done!
 

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i personally just left my tranny brace on and used a pry bar to get the bushings out.. took me 10 mins tops! find access to a lift, makes this DIY project alot easier!! you get more leverage standing up than laying down..

now my question: do i really need to grease my front bushings?? i didnt have grease at the time so i just slapped it on there.. still working fine, gear shifts okay, smooth transition with no problems.. im just curious if it'll hurt anything in the long run... thx in advance!
 

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now my question: do i really need to grease my front bushings?? i didnt have grease at the time so i just slapped it on there.. still working fine, gear shifts okay, smooth transition with no problems.. im just curious if it'll hurt anything in the long run... thx in advance!
Might wear out a bit faster, I don't know first hand for Subies but it's been seen in the Mazda crowd I used to hang out with
 

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YAY!! a complete write up on it. I'm still feeling really lazy about doing it. Anyone in NorCal want to help/do it for me? haha. I'm good with audio and a lot of the 12v stuff, not so much this type of thing. I'm pretty sure I have some left over goodies we could talk about as well. PM me. +1 to perp and sleeperwrx.

One last thing, should i use regular grease? or the white lithium stuff like on the shifter?
 

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I used this "How to" a few times yesterday. It reassured me when I was about to remove the cross brace. I ended up not removing it but I did take off the 4 bolts that held it up. This allowed me to get everything I needed to a little better. What a difference these bushings made! Unbelievable!

The hardest part was getting all the Aqua Lube off me after I was finished lol.
 

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Thanks for the DIY! I just did front and rears today. They feel awesome.

Does anybody know what the deal is with that flimsy piece of metal that sits between the exhaust and the drivetrain? Once I took it off, I decided not to put it back. Should I put it back on or is it useless? Thanks!
 
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