Thanks for all the friendly replies. I do have plans for modding, but I guess I will wait for Cobb's AP to come out. I'm looking for an SPT catback as well.
As far as dyno'ing, I only have 50 miles on the car so far...need more break in
break it in the way you plan on driving it. lol 140mph on my way home on the highway after i picked it up only 37 miles on her. 18k miles later not one problem or CEL. when my friend picked up his new civic SI the dealer told him break it in the way your gonna drive it lmao!
Congrats! The sedans look great in blue and white, if i wasn't such a hardcore black paint guy i woulda gotten blue next. looks great!! i searched the Timmons inventory after RATROKT found his car down south too.
Congratulations. WOT is not exactly the way to go during the break in period, although it's debatable. I believe in the manual it says something like no rapid acceleration and no hard braking unless in an emergency. WOT = rapid acceleration. I'm not saying baby it, but dont beat it up too quickly. No WOT, but no cruising around too much. Some load is good. You'll have plenty of time to do WOT stuff.
Most of the people I've ever heard who try to make arguments for WOT during break in being a good thing are pretty mislead. Often times they heard this from someone who builds or deals with engines for racing, which they interpret to mean that this is the best way to do things (never mind the fact that the conditions and maintenance factors are ENTIRELY different).
Beating up on an engine right away can let you squeeze a few more HP out of it (not very many), although it also increases oil consumption. For a street car a couple hp is hardly going to be noticeable, although you will notice having to repeatedly fill your oil between changes due to the increased consumption. The first few hundred miles (some say the first 100 miles) are the most important. Baby it a little more in the beginning, but as you get a few more miles on it there really isn't any harm in giving it some gas. The end of the break in period will not be nearly as critical. I would still keep the RPM's under 4k or so till you finish the break in though, but I'm anal.
That tint looks nice though. How do you like the suspension?
Breakin procedures are always controversial because everyone has a different routine. When I got my Accord, I floored it to redline on my way home, and I'm at 80k miles without a problem.
That's with numerous auto-x events, and even an aftermarket turbo kit on it...so I would say my motor is still running rather strong
Most of the "Brand New Motors" that I have broken in are on motorcycles, mostly dirt bikes and dual sports, during break in you would get metal shavings and gasket sealant as the pistons seeded in. Magnetic drain plug, and change the oil every 200 miles.
On my Subie after the first 500 miles I changes the oil just to see what would come out. Nothing but clean oil no shavings, contaminates. I leaned towards the keep it under 4k for break in purposes, although towards the end, I cheated just a little
I agree mostly with you. I have broke in cars and motorcycles. I would break in the car the same way i break in a motorcycle. The main point you have to look into when breaking in is all the seals are FRESH!!! Which means there subject to causing leaks and so on. My best advice to anyone breaking in any vehicle is you can beat it up a little bit but, just remember you need to let all the seals properly seat. I've seen people blow seals and cause leaks due to beating the piss out of it brand new. I have also seen nothing happen at all. I guess your in a 50/50 catergory on break in period. Break it in nice and easy then gradually give it more so the seals have time to set. Also DO NOT keep it at the same RPM's if your doing any highway driving in breakin. You want to fluctuate the RPM's just like you would on a motorcycle. Keeping it at a steady constant RPM will do more damage then just beating it up.
You wont find nearly as many shavings on a first oil change on a car as you would bike but, trust me they are there just tiny as hell I always do a 500, 1000, 1800 mile change to start off.
Also I know some of you die hard fans belive in synthetic oil switch instead of subaru juice. If you plan on doing this wait at least until 5k miles and to be super safe go for 10k. If the seals arent properly seated and lubed the synthetic will just eat the seals and probably blow them out. Then bye bye wrx.
I have no doubt that they are broken in at least a little at the factory, just like most cars, otherwise we'd be seeing A LOT more failures in brand new cars.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Subaru WRX Forums
350.6K posts
20.2K members
Since 2007
A forum community dedicated to Subaru WRX owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, turbos, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!