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Discussion Starter #161
Pulled a few logs this morning. First couple were on the flash i've been running for about 2 months now. I made a change to my FFS settings and re-flashed then pulled a few more logs. I like the FFS at 5200 and as far as the intercooler, seems smoother and harder pulling throughout. Not huge but, I do feel a difference. Need to figure out what's up with the splitter too, the stock one is currently sitting on my IC and gets squashed when I close the hood. I really feel like the fix is going to be trimming it down or just removing the rubber section so the whole opening flows freely to the IC. Pics on that later too.

Need to clean up my logs from this morning and then I'll post them later. Off to the store now for some bolts and all the crap to build a deck for drinking my Sunday mornin' coffee on:)
 

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Discussion Starter #162
Not sure what's up, looked at my logs in virtual dyno and got some crazy drop in tq's after max boost. Curve was not smooth like normal. Going to pull some in the morning again and send to Eric to see what's up. Wondering if it was because I did 4 logs in 4 different places...none of which are very flat.

F, it's always something!
 

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Discussion Starter #163 (Edited)
Little confused.....am I making less power now? Maybe a leak or something? There were some changes made to the ROM during May by Eric. I asked for some changes because I'd gone back to my stock CBE and my car didn't like it and was knocking a little in certain situations. After the corrections, then another week or two on the stock CBE, I went back to the 3" all the way and the car seems happy with that change back to 3" all the way back from the turbo. The May logs are essentially the same map as the June logs but, the June's have the TMIC on the car too.

I didn't share the logs below so that trolls could come in and snot all over them. I posted them in hopes of getting some feedback from the community that's very familiar with the TP tunes and the mods I have. I am no tuner and while I can look for knock, boost levels, and some basic stuff....I can't look at logs and judge them adequately in order to make sure my car is running safely.



March logs
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2Q3VaR29rV25WRFU/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2Q3VaR29rV25WRFU/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2a1dlUld4X19MY1E/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2aEttX1ptb2VYTVE/edit?usp=sharing

May logs
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2Yzkybk1EcWt5TEE/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2QzVWV2Nabm95VXc/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2Vk9ROWc5cU1HNlU/edit?usp=sharing

June logs w/ TMIC (Is anything going wrong here considering I just installed the TMIC?)
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2Z25ldFh1RUFKNTg/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2ZzZITnpmZVgxaGM/edit?usp=sharing
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwRlbQ6BUmk2OGlRcEJ2dUxTRVU/edit?usp=sharing
 

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Discussion Starter #164
Have yet to address the stripped bolt/female on the block. Have not had time. It's not an issue as I'm not timing on the car and even if I was, I'm sure it would be fine after looking at the service manual.

Then I figured out I had the correction factor wrong on my original tries at the Virtual Dyno. Probably not much gain from the FMS TMIC but car is running smooth as heck and zero complaints on the parts and tune.

I put on the Kartboy solid rear endlinks I ha sitting around, no problem other than getting new bolts for the lower control arm connection.

I've now popped my bumper off on the left and right by dragging my lip a few tome and also because the OE clips are shite. Guess I'll go with something like these clips from PasswordJDM.com. Krntehk ( Chan) had them and they look decent. I'll only do it if I can't replace the stock clips easily. Probably go black if I have to go this route.

http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Quick-Release-Fasteners-P4746C329.aspx
 

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Looks like you're staying exceptionally busy with the mods, Merc. Having fun? :cheesy:
Sorry, but I'm not well-versed in reading logs beyond just the basics. Good luck on getting the juice back.

I can sympathize with you on the crappy bumper cover hardware, though. I just spent a couple hours under mine this weekend, replacing a busted bumper cover bracket, patching a couple ripped/cracked clip holes and replacing thrashed clips. I actually ghetto-rigged a couple chunks of hockey stick to fab brackets for the two bumper lip supports under the license plate. Cheap & effective!
 

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Discussion Starter #166 (Edited)
Looks like you're staying exceptionally busy with the mods, Merc. Having fun? :cheesy:
Sorry, but I'm not well-versed in reading logs beyond just the basics. Good luck on getting the juice back.

I can sympathize with you on the crappy bumper cover hardware, though. I just spent a couple hours under mine this weekend, replacing a busted bumper cover bracket, patching a couple ripped/cracked clip holes and replacing thrashed clips. I actually ghetto-rigged a couple chunks of hockey stick to fab brackets for the two bumper lip supports under the license plate. Cheap & effective!
Ghetto fabulous on the hockey stick use, I love it! And yes, always screwing with my car, it calms me and gives me a sense of accomplishment. I'm an ADHD poster child and modding fits that perfectly.

As for the bumper, fuck that thing. I went to Lowe's and got some male clips to replace the ones in the wheel well that popped but the seem that goes forward from the wheel well toward the headlight has disintegrated on both sides with only one small drag on the ground each. Honestly I don't want to use the external bumper clips but.....I need to read up and look at my Suby FSM diagrams to see what it takes to replace the OE clips.

And like an adult, I didn't spend all my mad money on car parts for one last month, I actually bought all the crap to build a deck and almost finished it over this past weekend.

Deck 1.JPG Deck 2.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #167
What are you guys using for OE bushing lube? Also, what are you guys cleaning and lubing your coilovers with?

I have a squeak coming from my drivers rear suspension somewhere. I notice it when I get in and out of the car now. Probably the only time it's quiet enough to hear it. My inclination is that it's the toe link bushings or the LCA bushings where the mount to the chassis. It could be something on my coilovers to but, that't not my initial thought.

Another thing, and not sure how but, my FFS/LC settings got wiped out and in the ECU Flash setting boxes the values read "nan". I reset them and set my fuel cut RPM at 6700. Anybody else ever have that happen or did I somehow reset them??



To mod, you must be comfortable with the fact that you will ALWAYS have something to dial in on your car. If you are not comfortable with that, buy a car and leave it stock......and have your rig remain bland like the rest of the population!:pirate:
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
For some reason my FFS and LC settings got wiped. I reset them to what they were on a previous ROM I had.

Do these these settings seem normal? Not really worried about the LC and FFS deltas, more worried about the disables and cuts.

Any thoughts?

FFS/LC Settings:
Rev Limit (Fuel Cut): On above 6800, Off below 6795
Rev Limit Fuel Resume (Boost): 20 (psi relative)
Boost disable during fuel cut-RPM threshold: 12800
Boost disable during fuel cut-Load threshold: 1
Boost disable during fuel cut-Boost(psi) threshold: 24.364 (psi absolute)
LC disable speed(KMH) threshold: 5
LC disable speed(MPH) threshold: 3
LC RPM delta: 2000 (6800-2000=4800)
FFS RPM delta: 1300 (6800-1300=5500)
 

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Discussion Starter #171 (Edited)
Mystery solved with FFS/LC problems

Damn FFS/LC patch some how un-patched in my ROM between Eric Minehart and I making some revisions a few weeks ago for the TMIC. Guess I'll go through the patch process, again, and get back to my happy place in FFS/LC land. Glad it was something silly, dang computers are always screwing up when I'm around:)

Edit 6/26:
It didn't unpatch itself. I realized that when a tuner sends revisions, they just send you an updated version of the ROM's in their rolling file of your car's tunes. I was never sending in my patched ROM's to Eric with FFS/LC on them to be updated so, when I got the latest revisions I of course was going to need to re-patch the revised ROM with tinywrex's patch. The strange part to me, a non-IT savvy person was that, even though the ROM is not patched, the ROM did have the settings for FFS/LC still on it, just not the programming to support it. I could even go in and change them, hence my illusion that I still had it patched right, but they did not work when I flashed the map to the car.

I also had problems with the patcher program when I was informed that I'd need to go in and patch the revision. I was placing the revised ROM file with a .hex file name into the correct folder but, when I'd execute tinywrex's patcher, it was failing and giving the response "Error: Source file is corrupt at byte 0xf1050 <0xff expected, 0x45 found>!"

Emailed it to Nikos and he was able to change something in the ROM that allowed me to patch it when he sent it back to me. I've asked him what the issue was, hopefully I hear back and I'll post up the response.

Anyhow, as soon as I have my Tactrix back I'll be flashing everything back onto the car so I can get back to sniping muscle cars and Cadi's plus most anyone else when they try to come from behind on the highway doing 95mph already. I guess they just assume I'm a little ricer that they can stomp on with their 50k+ rigs...not so much......bitches!!!!!!!!!!!!! I commute everyday so I get it alot, until they realize I'm the same guy from last week that started their morning off wrong!

All good in the hood!


 

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Discussion Starter #172
35 miles of evening/night twisting roads with 2 stg2 bugeyes and a lowered LGT wagon. Kind of nice being a bachelor with the fam out of town and the house to myself. Also played 72 holes of golf since last Thursday....mehehe.

Gauges in the works too. AEM o2 and boost in an SMY. Not stoked to drop the DP and get the bung welded, just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #173
Gauges on the way...and some pads too!

AEM Digi Boost and UEGO on the way along with an SMY Pod. Also bought some Hawk HPS pads because mine are due soon. WHo knows, maybe a little track time as well.

AEM Digi Boost.jpg AEM UEGO.jpg


Something like this should be cool. Not sure if I'll use the silver bezels or the black, leaning toward black with black faces.

Yes it's an STi, but close enough.
AEM in SMY on Sti.jpg

This is the WRX view....minus the AP in my case:)
SMY with AEM WRX.jpg


Also reading this so I can set up the logging of the WB into Romraider once I get it installed onto the car, thanks Kingsalami!
http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/11-3g-wrx-do-yourself-help/18983-how-use-aem-uego-inline-wideband-log-afr.html
 

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Discussion Starter #174 (Edited)
Bumper fixed, New Bridgestone rubber, refreshed some paint, can't wait for gauges!

Been busy lately with travel and work but have managed to get some fixes done to the car, freshened up the paint on the grill and rear hatch trim, bought new tires for the Rotas, and I think I'm ready for installing my gauges in the next 2 weeks when time allows. Also bought some Hawk HPS pads to install when I do SS lines and remove the DP to have the bung welded for the UEGO o2 sensor.

If you have bumper issues related to the Front Side brackets, this is a REAL easy fix. I ordered both right and left brackets for under $25 shipped. Popped out all the plastic clips for the wheel well liner, and was able to replace the brackets without completely removing the bumper. I replaced both sides, because this is my first lowered car and I've drug the bumper a few times:), withing about 30/45 minutes. It's an 8mm bolts that wedges/secures the brackets into the body panel similar to a drywall anchor. In the 3rd pic below, you can see how the bracket mounts to the upper body section, not the bumper. Then the bumper snaps into it horizontally. Once I put the new bracket in, voila, bumper popped back in nice and flush just like I was a 'body" guy!

Picture 031.jpg Picture 033.jpg Picture 034.jpg


I didn't take the bumper all the way off like this video is meant for but, good vid if you need to do any type of full or partial bumper removal.


Also realized while I was working on my bumper that my Conti DW tires were dangerously worn on theAnd I didn;t take it all the way opff front 2 tires...down to cords:doh: After speaking with the local tire/alignment shop guys, I've realized i need to move the tops of my BC coilovers toward the outside of the car because I'm sitting just barely shy of acceptable camber up front. It was pretty insane how worn down my inner edges were on those Conti tires. I knew they were essentially dead but holy crap, these were damn near critical failure. I was diligent about rotating every 3/4k but since I lowered the car on the BC's, even after an alignment, the front camber was really amplifying the wear on these sift summer tires.

Anyway, I went ahead and bought the Bridgestone RE970 A/S Pole Position tires in the same 235/40r18 size I've been running on my 18x8.5 +40 Rota's. I would've liked to have the Conti DWS because the Re970's aren;t great in snow but, I got these for $200 less. It came out to less $$ than all the internet prices for just tires and not including shipping/mount. I felt OK about the expenditure for the UHP All Seasons rather than some of the lower classed all season tires. The tires are super quiet compared to the bald summers I was riding on previously. They seem to track straighter on the highway and aren't influenced nearly as much by the tire gullies on some of the older major volume roads around Denver. I have not really pushed these to the edge yet but, initially they feel softer but still composed. I have lifetime alignments on the car and will be religiously using it so I can utilize the full 40k millage warranty on these. Little sad I don't have sticker summers but, that was just not practical from a commuting, $$, second kid on the way standpoint.

Not mine, just an internet pic jack....
RE970 A-S Pole Position.jpg


I still need a damn windshield too but, I can't seem to stop buying parts that are more fun. And besides, the crack is not in the line of sight.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
I want my summer tires back. These new tires are great and will work year round and last longer but.....I want my sticky icky back:cry:. I do enjoy the quietness and overall ride on the new tires and as an adult I think I made the right decision by going with a 40k mile tire rather than blowing through them in 20k like I did with the Conti DW's. I hate being an adult!

About to order some of this to lube up the coilovers too. Good schtuff from what I've read.
t-9.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #176 (Edited)
Thanks to my friendly IT guy, I was able to score a Serial to USB cable for free so I can begin splicing together the Frankenstein WBo2 to Romraider logging cable. Also scored the female serial adapter to solder the connecting wires that will go to the WB gauge itself. I called Radio Shack to see if they had the female adapter. The kid working the phone says they don't have any after he rummaged through bins. However, I was bored on lunch so I went in anyway. Low and behold....it was sitting right in the drawer for $2.49. I bought DB-9 female adapter with the open connectors on the back along with a "case" or plug head for the adapter. Total bill, $7.02. Now I just need a some wire, a soldering iron, and an o2 sensor bung welded to my DP. Hoping Harbor Freight has a soldering iron in stock and planning to get the DP bung welded in next weekend sometime.

serial to usb.jpg femail db9.jpg serial hood.jpg

The last 2 pics will end up looking like the one below here. Blue for the feed from the WBo2 and Black to ground. Plug it into the male serial end of the cable, then plug in the USB to the laptop. Hopefully as easy as it sounds.
logging adapter.png

Anybody want to work for me and watch the kids while I install all my parts?!?!
 

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Discussion Starter #177 (Edited)
Rear Camber issues...maybe corrective bushings or LCA's??!!??

Adjusted my front top hats last to remove some negative camber up front and allow the alignment techs to start from a more neutral position rather than having me maxed on adjustment and just barely in spec. No issues there after an alignment this morning but, how is it that I'm at the same heights in the rear with my coilovers but the camber is -2.6 on the left and only -1.4 on the right? Being that the rear camber is a product of your ride height...I'm confused.:shocked:

Wondering about the value of Powerflex adjustable rear camber bushings that Kingsalami used, link here 3G WRX Suspension, or maybe just buying new LCA's. By the time I do all the work for the Powerflex adjustable bushings, I feel like it may be just as valuable to buy the LCA's and do the install. At about $240+ for the Powerflex camber bushings plus needing a press and some serious elbow grease to remove the stockers versus....... $400 for new LCA's and what appears on the surface to be an easy install........not sure how to proceed.

Yes yes, I'm going to read up some more but....any thoughts from experienced users of LCA's or Whiteline/Powerflex adjustable rear camber bushings? If you had to do it again would you go the same route and what was that route?
 

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If you are going to pay a shop to install the bushings, just go with the LCA's; it will be cheaper in the end. There site sucks, what kind of adjustment do these have? I'm assuming around the same as Whiteline's +/- .75*?
 

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I heard from my alignment shop the whiteline rear camber bushings are crap. if you going to do it get LCA's... i read that TIC is going to be releasing their LCA's soon...
 
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