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Discussion Starter #1
You heard right. I guess this has already happened to some other guy who posted it on youtube.

My car started making bad gringing knocking noise one night. It got so bad it stalled when I put it in netural and had to get it towed to my local dealership. They said that there going to replace the entire engine. They said they've never seen a WRX with under 3,000 miles blow. I guessing its bearings. They gave me a base 09 Forester to drive until they fix it.

The car was not abused at all. Proper break in and just a DD

I guess im ok with them changing out the engine as long as it's 100% new and complete. Should it come with a new turbo? I'm thinking about buying a afermarket clutch to stick in there since my always seemed to stink. I was going to go stage 1 but I'm gonna drive this new engine for 10k before I mod.

What clutch do you reccomend for 350whp max :(
 

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Dude, that sucks. Yah, we have a problem with rod bearings, apparently really only on the cylinder closest to the turbo. I am not sure why, though I am guessing maybe the heat from the turbo causes the oil to drain from that area more easily, increasing the potential for spun bearings on cold starts? I have no idea really, and I'm no mechanic, but that's the only real difference that I can think of that could cause one bearing to reliably fail over all of the others. I wonder if a turbo-wrap would help avoid this?

I have a couple of questions though...

1. How many miles did you have on your car?
2. Do you make any special efforts while the car is warming up on a cold start?
3. Do you make any special effort to allow the turbo to cool before shutting it off?
4. What kind of oil do you use, and what sort of oil change intervals do you run?
5. When the grinding started, was it at the beginning of the trip, or well into the trip?
6. Do you have any mods?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. 2,600 miles
2. No boost until warm
3. I live at the bottom of a hill so im costing the last 3 miles of my drive. Turbo is cool at shut down.
4. I switched to Royal Purple at 1,000 miles
5. First 5 minutes
6. No

I'm really parnoid now about the car. I feel like im never going to trust it's realiability AGAIN and im afraid I will loose my warranty if I get a pro tune to improve the engine maps since Subaru cant figure it out. I can guarentee if the second one blows they will go out of their way to find a reason to void my warranty. I hope if the next one blows I hope it blows early on before I flash stage 1 because they will find something in the ecm.

This all feels like a bad dream. I would be all ;D ;D ;D if they wrote a check for the price on the estimate and take that $$$$ and get the work done at a real performance shop and has a Coosworth stage 2 engine installed and tuned my them



I need to get more details to the "complete" engine swap.
 

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I definitely understand your frustration. I wonder if it is a problem with the bearings themselves, or with the oil delivery. If it's a problem with the bearings themselves you'd think that it would be solvable with a few internal upgrades. Doesn't cosworth make bearings for our engines? I'd prefer to avoid a full engine build personally.

I wonder if your switching to synthetic before running a full interval has anything to do with it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
^Most high performance cars come from the factory with synthetic. I figured subaru was being cheap.
 

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They probably were (just being cheap), however break-in oils aren't always just standard oil. They are sometimes special oils put in the cars specifically for break-in, and a few manufacturers recommend that you run a full interval on the factory oil before changing it. Honda comes to mind.

Then there is the issue of breaking a car in on synthetic oil since the slightly increased wear that occurs when using regular dino oil is important to the break-in process and wearing parts into the correct shape since there are very small differences between supposedly identical parts when they are manufactured. This seems to be more of an old-school engine builder idea given that synthetic has caused a lot of problems on older style engines during break in due to uneven clearances not being worn down, but hey, maybe it applies to our cars.

I know that a number of cars come with synthetic from the factory, though it occurs to me that maybe a lot of them aren't just slapped together and thrown in the car, but rather actually run up to speed before for some time being put into the car for final assembly. I don't know a ton about auto assembly/manufacturing, so I'm just speculating here.

Regardless, I am a huge fan of synthetic in general as most quality synthetics pretty much stop wear, though performing the first oil change early has never been something that I have thought was a good idea. 1000 miles is more of a guideline. Most of the break-in happens in the first couple hundred miles, though I wouldn't feel safe betting that it's still not happening even after 1000 miles.

Most of the instances of spun bearings on the 08/09's (I've heard of a couple more, shoulda bookmarked em) seem to happen at VERY low mileage (as in 5k or below), which makes me think that it very well may have something to do with the way that people choose to break in their cars, more specifically oil and lubrication related given that these are obviously the primary reasons that rod-bearings fail. Something to think about.
 

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They probably were (just being cheap), however break-in oils aren't always just standard oil. They are sometimes special oils put in the cars specifically for break-in, and a few manufacturers recommend that you run a full interval on the factory oil before changing it. Honda comes to mind.
+1 i was a tech at acura for a while and positive honda does this, so now i wait til around 1500 before my first oil change and i use a high quality, non synthetic to allow the engine to continue breaking in for another 1500 before i put anything fancy in. i doubt it has anything to do with your engine failure though
 

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Glad I got an 08.... JK. Did the dealship try to not cover it? I have had the worst luck with my dealership and them fixing their mistakes.
 

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[email protected]#$! Sorry to hear that ROKT. I remember when you posted here when you got your car and I got mine a few weeks later. You got me worried, now.

Forreal, I'd like to know if you did anything "you're not supposed to" during break in. Sounds like you did the warm upa nd cool down. Did you redline? Rev the car in neutral? Etc.? I jsut want to know because I'm int he break in period too.

About RP...that's interesting. I've been posting about what oil to use. The synthetic debate is alive but I personally have read about a lot of engine seal failures related to RP. My RS' head gasket was leaky within months of me using RP for the first time.

Search for oil, in this forum, what chanke said is very true. SOA doesn's want you to change your oil till 3750 and if you do they STRONGLY recommend not to use synthetic in this period so the engine parts can mate. But, I don't know if that has anything to do with your engine failure either

Can you descrive the sound withh a little more detail? Do you mind me askign what dealrship you are dealng with? Sorry again, ROKT, let us know how it turns out.
 

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Sorry to hear that man! I did the same as you. But I changed to Mobil 1 at 1k miles. Car now has 7k and runs great. Been using Mobil 1 the whole time and not losing oil like some have seen with Mobil 1.

Cosworth does make Crankshaft bearings and Connecting rod bearings. Very cheap as well.

Hope your car is up and running soon!
 

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The motor in our cars in not exactly new and you think they would have it sorted by now? I remember when my tune was stock it would sometime fuel cut when overtaking. It use to scrare the shit out of me and unfortunately the dealer could not replicate it. Since my pro tune it is a different car and I have not had that issue return.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I waited until my break in period was over at 1,400 miles then I switched to RP. The majority of the break in was driving from so cal cal to nor cal at varing engine speed and never above 4k. Dont redline much maybe 10 times the whole 3 months mostly shift at 5200rpm.
 

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I guess i'm curious whether the rod bearings themselves contribute to their own failure, or if they fail primarily because of other reasons not mainly attributed to the bearings themselves. Can anyone answer me that question?
 

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The motor in our cars in not exactly new and you think they would have it sorted by now? I remember when my tune was stock it would sometime fuel cut when overtaking. It use to scrare the shit out of me and unfortunately the dealer could not replicate it. Since my pro tune it is a different car and I have not had that issue return.
Hey black thing, where did you get the pro tune? Is it a flash thing or you actually get hardware?
lastly! Whats your gauges look like?
 

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Man, I switched out my break in stuff to Mobil 1 at 800 miles. Seems ok so far. I have 1500 miles on it, most of it highway miles. Will keep all posted.

Think I'm ok?

joneSi


EDIT: OMG...super paranoid right now about my oil change. Draining the M1 and putting dino oil in it tomorrow. Did similar w/ my civic, it was fine...somebody, help my sanity!
 

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wow, this is making me nervous.

limeaid,
1. what did you do for break in
2. what kind of oil were you using
3. when did you do your first oil change?
4. what year is your car?
 
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