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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so total newb here. I want a total thumping system. Nothing too booming, like a bandpass, but definitely loud is needed. Anyway I've been doing a lot of research and here is what I think would be an appropriate setup.

JVC KW-XG500 H/U (simply because its double DIN... dont really want to leave have of my dash open...)
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?showAll=N&g=300&i=105KWGX500&tp=5684&tab=features_and_specs

Pyle 1.2 Farad Capacitor
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12388_Pyle+PLDCP1.2KIT.html

Either Alpine PDX 1.1000 or two Kenwood KAC-9104D

Two 12" Alpine type R (2 or 4 ohm DVC)

and this box: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7509_Sonic+Sub+Box-+2SV12+-GRAY-.html

First of all would all this even work on my stock battery/alternator? Or would i need an Optima Yellow top or something.
Second for wiring where do you tap the turn on lead to? and how do you attach the capacitor (I know what wires and stuff but im taking like actually connecting the wires to the cap...)

Any info appreciated. Im also thinking about just getting one Kicker L7 12" and running at 750 watts... ive heard thats much simpler...
 

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First off, drop the cap, you dont need this of you do the following:

add a 4g to the batterie ground
add a 4g for the (+) off your alternator
add a 4g to any engine ground

that will cost you less than a cap and will be way more effective

as for the HU the 500 only have 2 preout 2.5V so if you want that HU consider getting the 700 for 50$ more you get a third preout with a sub control and a USB port

for doubledin you can also look at the kenwood stuff for a more powerfull internal amp

finaly for the amp/sub setup
good choice with the type-r
but yes the alpine PDX is nice but really overpriced and i rather get the Excelon KAC-X1R than the KAC-9104D

oh and for the remote of the amp you plug it to the REM out of the new HU that it... and for the cap mounting you dont need that crap anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks a lot. Few follow up questions...

Run my power directly from the alternator? How do you do that?
You're right btw the XG700 looks a lot better.
I'm leaning now towards the L7 simply because its less watts from my battery (less worry) and easier wiring (one instead of two). Theres a guy out there who had two ported 12" Type-Rs and switched to one 12" ported L7 and swears the L7 blows the type-R's away... he could be high off his ass but who knows.

so what about an L7, this box: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7285_12-+Square+Hole,+Long+Rear+Slot+Ported+Enclosure+for+Kicker+Solo-Baric+L5+-+L7+Subwoofers+-121KP-.html (shaped well for that style subwoofer, plus near max volume), and the Kicker 08ZX750.1 amp so i can run the 4 ohm DVC in parallel to 2 ohm and then draw 750 watts... good or bad plan? (probably saves me around $200)
 

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Totally agree with Courteau capacitor is useless. i have one of the type-r and its definately powerful, 2 will shake the cars next to u. Just something to consider, I had to manufacture a custom box to get my sub into the trunk of the sedan, space is really tight. If you have the hatch its no problem. and u know that our stereo isn't a perfect double din slot right? It requires the JDM or Metra kit (the JDM looks better). If you get it all to work and fit, mad props, it'l sound really good.

Spike
 

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I have the XG700 in my '08. The USB input is far more handy than you would think it would be if you've never had it before.

I originally had it installed with the metra dash kit, but have since upgraded to the JDM surround to eliminate the extra space. I'll grab a couple pics and put them up so you can see how it looks installed.

SJ
 

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kicker suck in soundquality... they will shake and that it

2 type R and the excellon amp will be more than enough... especialy if your are not upgrading your front stage

and for what i was talking about for the alternator is to put a bigger wire for your (+) of the alt to the (+) of the battery

just search under "Big 3"
 

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Discussion Starter #8
if i used that excellon would i set up two of the 2-ohm DVC ones so i could use series/parallel and end up with 2-ohm final impedance and draw 1,200 watts??

also ive heard good things about kicker... plus im not exactly an audiophile...

and i already have a decent grounding kit, so does that mean im looking at a BIG 2?? how necessary is this exactly? or is it definately needed if i dont use a cap?
 

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it will make your electrical system flow better, your amp will received more power and good grounding is required to have a good flow
 

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i rather buy the JMD than having it look like this

http://www.installer.com/photos/95-8902.j
pg


if it was not for the fact that im doing a OEM Integration setup i will have bought that clarion doubledin and setting it for red or white colors colors all around to match the cluster



 

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hers my question how much space is under our seats? (dimentions) and what are the dimentions of the subaru underseat sub and amp kit
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i measured under the seat, i think its like 14 in wide and 15 in deep? something like that. its not a straight box so the dimensions vary dramatically based on how you measure. also max height is like 5 in with seat set to max height, but with the same seat setting the height at the back of the seat (where you would slide stuff in) is only like 3.5 or 4 inches. its really not meant for aftermarket subs of any value. however you could squeeze in a decent shallow mount 8" if you really wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
ok so i have a few questions about wiring guys. (not big 3 related)

So when connecting power, grounnd, and turn on lead to your amp, it looks like you just leave the end of the wire bare (not too much) and then screw down the screw to lock it in the terminal. is this correct? also, when wiring subs, do you start the wire in this screw terminal fashion and end it in those RCA terminals? general info needed.

thanks.
 

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as for mounting a sub under the passanger seat, you can prob. fit a 10" exile audio on a 0.35 ft.sq

as for your wiring question i will take picture tomorow, installed a 0/1gauge wire from front to back and it went quite well

but the general rule when wiring a amp are

one side of the car, Signal cables (RCA) running from the HU to the back (removed your rear lower seat so you can bring everything there for now

on the OTHER side of the car bring: REM from the HU (the blue turn on lead) to the back of the car
on that same side of the car you pass your power from the battery (throught a fuses at less than 18inchs from the battery) to the back of the car

for the ground you have to scrape to paint out to be on the bare metal, you can either put your wire in a good ring terminal or in a screwplate terminal like this
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=714&i=211GT14&tp=2357

i will take picture of where to cross your power wire from the battery throught the firewall
 
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