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Discussion Starter #1
So, when I bought my 2012 WRX I had to have it retuned back to stock. That being said, now I want to make some changes to my Subie, but I'm unsure as to what would require a retune. I'm changing up my exhaust, and I know that wouldn't require one. But, if I wanted to change my air intake, that would need a retune? Is this correct?
 

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Not true. A catback and axle back are the only exhaust setups that do not require a tune. And yes every intake does.
Keep in mind that Cobbs off the shelf tunes only support the mods listed in the map notes and any difference can result in problems
 

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what he said
 

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If you're looking for the best bang-for-the-buck, power-wise, I'd wait on the intake until you complete a couple more effective power mods:

1. Downpipe with either the stock cat-back or an aftermarket (the downpipe requires a retune). A Cobb DP allows you to bolt up to your OEM exhaust.
2. Tactrix 2.0 cable to reflash tunes to your ECU (use with a netbook or laptop)
2. Torqued Performance OTS tune

An aftermarket intake is useless until you open up the exhaust since the stock DP is the major bottleneck to freer flow. The aftermarket intake will also require it's own tune since the MAF requires rescaling when modifying the dimensions of the intake pipe.
 

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1. Turboback - catlesss downpipe. Invidia
2. AEM CAI
3. Boost Controller
4. Cobb AccessPort
5. Tune from Torqued Performance

in that order
 

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I don't get boost creep from being catless, that was only the older versions of invidia. the new ones don't have that issue. This was confirmed by the Forman Guys before I bought the catless. 2nd I'm not in a state that cares about emissions and even if I did, I would still run catless.
 

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Sweet, catless is back on my list now. Did you get it straight from invidia or do the vendors have the new style now too?
 

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It was Invidia older models from whenever that year had issues. I bought mine directly from Forman but they aren't doing that anymore. Best bet is rallysportdirect. All of invidia products from the vendors are the "new" style. I don't know any vendor that sells out of date products besides ebay.
 

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Sweet I'll give it a shot. Good price, catless always sounds better anyway. If not someone I bet would be willing to do a trade

OP along with modding I would suggest changing your shifter bushings, maybe put a short throw in, transmission pitch mount and suspension upgrades
 

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cob_524202_6_lg.jpg catted

inv_hs08sw1dpo_3_sd.jpg catless
 

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You'll learn over time.
Again though the 15 is a completely different layout then the previous gens so we're still learning what's good and isn't for it as well. Such as there's no downpipe but rather a j-pipe now. I don't know where the cats are located...I'd imagine in the j-pipe

Titanium will be nice. Will be tinny and loud in cold starts thiugh but after it warms up it'll sound nice as hell. Invidia does make amazing products as well
 

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I do very seldom get creep w/no external waste gate when it's real cold out and the ECU will go into "safe". It's still totally driovable and tells me that the dafegaurds are doing their job by stopping before any damage occurs. The engine just wants more air because that cold air is so thick and yummy so boost starts creeeeeeeping!!! The car definitely runs harder and stronger when it's cold air coming in. Also usually happens when I'm ripping up to the mtns West of Denver, hard to keep my foot out of it on a few of the roads like Loveland pass! With that said, I do have an older catless Invidia DP, K&N intake, EBCS, big TMIC and a stage 2 TP tune. Love it, just need someone else's CC to buy an external waste gate set up so I don't scare the shit out of myself twice a winter when I overboost and the ECU hits a brick wall!! You'll know the first time you do it, you'll think you just broke your car and all the lights start flashing. Just need to reflash or reset the ECU with a "battery cable off" reset.

GLWI,

John
 

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I do very seldom get creep w/no external waste gate when it's real cold out and the ECU will go into "safe". It's still totally driovable and tells me that the dafegaurds are doing their job by stopping before any damage occurs. The engine just wants more air because that cold air is so thick and yummy so boost starts creeeeeeeping!!! The car definitely runs harder and stronger when it's cold air coming in. Also usually happens when I'm ripping up to the mtns West of Denver, hard to keep my foot out of it on a few of the roads like Loveland pass! With that said, I do have an older catless Invidia DP, K&N intake, EBCS, big TMIC and a stage 2 TP tune. Love it, just need someone else's CC to buy an external waste gate set up so I don't scare the shit out of myself twice a winter when I overboost and the ECU hits a brick wall!! You'll know the first time you do it, you'll think you just broke your car and all the lights start flashing. Just need to reflash or reset the ECU with a "battery cable off" reset.

GLWI,

John
Oh my god it happened to me this past summer stock lol
 
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