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Also, what are peoples' thoughts on clutches? I was looking at SPEC clutches, but after some research, it seems that they might not be the way to go. I want to obey they thought that the clutch should be the "fuse" because I don't have a built transmission.

Here is what I'm thinking:

Exedy OEM replacement clutch (comes with new TOB)
ACT Streetlight flywheel (since the OEM flywheel isn't serviceable)

Thoughts? I don't want to go to crazy with the clutch and break something more expensive to replace.
What makes you think the OEM Flywheel isn't serviceable? We get them resurfaced all the time. The only ones that aren't resurfaceable are the dual mass ones and even those may be resurfaceable.

As for which clutch, I would not go any grippier of a clutch than you need to do for your forseeable mods. Also as you said, it's a lot cheaper to replace your clutch if it starts slipping due to extra power than it is to pay to rebuild the whole transmission.

-mike
I like this guy. Lol. Very informative!
 

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My clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 5th on WOT, I was looking into the act 6 puck sprung clutch and streetlite flywheel, my buddy has the same setup in his ms6 and he loves it. Is this the right way to go or is it overkill. I do plan on going stage 3 eventually.
 

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My clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 5th on WOT, I was looking into the act 6 puck sprung clutch and streetlite flywheel, my buddy has the same setup in his ms6 and he loves it. Is this the right way to go or is it overkill. I do plan on going stage 3 eventually.
Overkill IMO. The regular HD clutch should do fine for your application if you only plan on going stage 3.


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My clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 5th on WOT, I was looking into the act 6 puck sprung clutch and streetlite flywheel, my buddy has the same setup in his ms6 and he loves it. Is this the right way to go or is it overkill. I do plan on going stage 3 eventually.
I have to concur with that assessment. The ACT HD will be plenty. The 6 puck will be overkill. We've actually taken out at least 2-3 6-puck clutches that folks had in their cars because they were overkill and they wanted to get rid of them.

-mike

Overkill IMO. The regular HD clutch should do fine for your application if you only plan on going stage 3.


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Yeah that's what I figured I was gonna hear, I just figured I could suck up the 6-puck cause the heavy duty is only rated for 420 ft lbs and the 6-puck is like 537. But I've read that the 6 puck is a lot harder on the transmission. I don't want the hdss to start slipping as I get more serious with mods.. I'm TP stage 2 as of now.
 

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Yeah true, looks like I'm going with the HDSS lol. Thanks for the help.
 

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I think my clutch is going out (or TOB). I have a squeak that I've never had, and it only happens when the clutch is fully engaged (even in neutral just idling).

Not sure which clutch I want to replace it with just yet, but I'm concerned with install costs. With a clutch/flywheel combo running probably 0, how much should I expect to pay a shop to install it? I'm worried this could easily turn into a 00+ undertaking...

Should I have the dealer install it? Or should I take it to my tuner in Chicago and have them do it? IIRC, dealer labor rates are a lot less than my tuner.

Thanks for any info.
If we are talking about The same squeak, it is common. I and many others have had it addressed by the dealer only to have it come back. There are a few threads on here about it. I would try and link them for you but am on my phone.
Either way, unless it's slipping, replacing it may not be totally necessary and may not fix the squeak.
 

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Not the firewall. Just a squeaky throw out. Mine did it only at cold starts in the rain at first. Eventually did it every time I pressed the Clutch In. Dealer warrantied it. Noise went away for two weeks before it returned full time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I'm out of warranty now anyway, so I'm not even going to attempt that. TOB was my first thought, but as I said, I've got 2 different noises going on. 1 is the clutch pedal squeak which has been widely discussed in other threads. The other noise, completely independent of that, is a squeal that occurs only when the clutch is engaged. The sounds come from noticeably different areas.

I figure I might as well cover all my bases. Even if the welds are still intact on the firewall, it's only a matter of time before they fail. I plan on inspecting it this week when I have some time off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Another question while on the subject of clutches. What is the difference between the '02-'05 clutch, and the '06+?

AFAIK, Subarus are like legos, meaning any tranny will bolt up to any engine. I know the older ones have the 2 liter vs the 2.5, but the mounting is the same. The reason I ask is because it seems that there are more clutches to choose from when you include the '02-'05 clutches.
 

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Yeah I was thinking the same thing... Cause ACT makes a heavy duty, and a heavy duty extreme for the older wrx/sti, but we only have heavy duty... Are they interchangeable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I don't see why not. It doesn't make sense why they wouldn't be. I hope someone with more specific knowledge can chime in. The prices are basically the same between the 2, so it isn't a marketing ploy. I'm sure there is some technical reason.
 

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02-05 Imprezas take a different type of clutch and flywheel. 06+ and 07+ Legacies take the "newer" style flywheel and clutch setup. While they all bolt up to the engines the same there are a lot of differences.

The "newer" ones have a double coned 1st and 2nd gear which allows you to get into and out of them easier. These are also essentially the STi V(whatever) from the late 90s in Japan gearset.

So you need to use clutches and flywheels from the newer setup or you will end up with pre-mature slipping issues as the clearances are different in there.

-mike

 
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