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Discussion Starter #1
Just spent a couple of hours tonight installing the boost gauge. Pretty smooth overall, I followed clam's and elwray's guides (http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,13926.0.html) and routed the sender cable through the fender using Eric's method (http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,5732.0.html). Everything was pretty easy once I figured out how to flex out the fender liner, and it really is the ideal routing for the sender unit wiring.


I wanted blue in the daytime and red at night, so I used fuse taps to connect the amber wire to fuse 16 (illumination) and the white wire to fuse 31 (accessory power). It worked like a charm when the ignition was on the second position (power on, no ignition). But whenever I started the car, it would perform the ceremony again and change to blue, whether my headlights were on or off. For now, I just disconnected the white wire and routed amber to accessory power, so it'd be red all the time, and it's working just fine that way. But it'd be nice to have the color change as originally intended. Anyone have ideas?
 

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As long as I'm here, I figure I'd post some instructions and pics from my install.


As I said, most of it is pretty easy once you think it through. I found it easiest to start in the cabin and work under the hood once everything else was squared away.


I installed fuse taps (I used Pico brand 0956PT "Add-A-Circuit" ATM fuse holders. Our cars use ATM mini fuses, not ATC. Probably obvious to most, but not so much to me. I stacked fuse holders so I could use the same accessory power port. I don't know if this sis a great idea or not, but there's plenty of space in the fuse box to do so and heck, each line is individually fused, so it can't be all that ghetto, no?




Here I've connected the white (blue illumination) and red (power) wires to a single circuit to run off ACC Power, and the amber (red illumination) separately to run off theTAIL CLEARANCE fuse.

I pre-soldered all the connections (wires to fuse taps, grounds to spade tongues, sender signal to gauge input). Probably not the smartest way to do it, but I figured the sender connector was small enough to fit through the fender grommet. I installed the gauge in the SMY cluster, replaced the cluster, hooked up all the gauge wiring, and then jammed a utility knife blade through the empty upper section of the fender wall grommet above the driver's dead pedal:





A single slice will do for small sender wiring, but an X will work too. Before sending the wiring through the cabin and into the grommet, I wrapped the head and a few inches of wiring in electrical tape to stiffen it and make it so I wouldn't accidentally pull the connector or any individual wires out.


In order to get to the wiring from the fender, you have move the fender liner out of the way. I turned the wheels as far to the left as possible, and jacked up the car a few inches. I then removed a couple of the plastic philips-clips closest to the top and back of the fender wall, and peeled back the fender liner at the point closest to the fender lip (the fender sheetmetal has a few extensions holding the liner in, you just have to pull the liner out from beneath them):





Once you do that, you have a clear view of the grommet, and the wiring coming out of it:





If you shine a flashlight from the side of the engine compartment, you can actually see the beam come down the fender. Just feed the wire up the side of the fender and you'll see it emerge in the engine compartment:





Here you can see where I've wrapped up the connector to make it easier to pass through the grommet and fender. You can unwrap the wiring at this point. Also, this is the point where I took the wiring sticking out of the engine compartment, and started feeding it through a 1/4" PVC split loom/conduit. I started with the exposed wiring in the engine compartment and fed the look back down the fender and to the grommet. You'll need maybe 3-5ft depending on how long you made the wiring.


Then I just positioned the wiring to where I mounted the sender, and hooked it up. The fender is really the ideal place for the boost gauge. Your wires don't snake across the drivers/passenger footwells, and the wiring (or tubing) comes out as close to the BPV hose as you can get--it's a straight shot from the opening of the fender across the edge of the strut tower.


ProSport gauge installed:



I still can't get the blue/red to change with the headlights. It works fine when the car is off, but turn the engine and it reverts to daylight colors. It could be because of my HID retrofit with relay, but I'm not sure how that would affect the voltage running through fuse 14...for now I'm running red only. The above pic isn't great, but does a pretty good job illustrating the difference in color between the stock gauges and the Prosport Evo.


Having gone through this process once, I'm not really looking forward to installing a WBO2 (to eventually fill the left SMY pod)...I soldered the sender wiring to the gauge wiring instead of using detachable connectors, and getting another gauge's worth of wiring installed is going to be more of a pain. At this point I'm really seeing the wisdom behind daisy-chain/headunits like the Defi. But I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. For now, the Prosport works great. It's accurate, looks great in the cluster, and is plenty fast/readable for me. I wish mine showed a minus sign for vacuum pressure, as the gauge approaches zero I have a hard time telling if I'm looking at 5psi or -5psi and have to look at the tiny digital needle section and locate the zero mark (the picture above is -22psi).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So I played around a little more with the fuses and figured out some interesting behavior with the Prosport...if you want blue in the daytime and red in the nighttime, you need to start your car with the headlights off, or else the gauge will lock to blue and not change color at all until you power cycle it (with the headlights off). The funny thing is, it doesn't do this if you want blue in the nighttime and red in the daytime. Seems to me that when the gauge starts up, if there is voltage going only to the white wire and not the amber (or vice versa), you're good to go. But if there's voltage going to both wires on startup, and amber is hooked up to the illumination fuse, then you're hosed. If there's voltage going to both wires on startup, and white is hooked up to illumination, you're fine. :-\ :-\


Not sure what to make of this, does it happen to anyone else? I've shot an email to Prosport, waiting to hear the reply.
 

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All my Evo gauges do that, I have to wait for the full cycle, then I can turn my headlights on. Or else they're locked blue until I turn car off and on again with headlights off, this includes parking lights also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I shouldn't care, because the blue doesn't match anything in my car, but it's festering in the back of my mind. I heard from Prosport, they're stumped as to why red works in the daytime but not at night.


I have a couple more ideas I'll try tonight (try to keep power to the unit by hooking red up to door lock, and see if that "holds" the correct blue/red order without illuminating the gauge with the key out, but the way they programmed the default lights may not allow for this (once powered up, the gauge may stay illuminated even if voltage stops running to both white and amber wires).


In the end, I think I'll probably just stick it on red-all-the-time.


In the meantime, my impressions of the ProSport evo:


Pros:

  • [li]Handsome design. Nice needle sweep and digital readout.[/li]
    [li]Fast-updating[/li]
    [li]I like the idea of the color-changing electronics[/li]
    [li]Accurate - peak boost and vacuum matches with logging, I assume everything inbetween works too.[/li]
Cons:

  • [li]No minus sign for vacuum (I've seen some on Youtube that have it, I must have an older version)[/li]
    [li]Zero is hard to see. There's no mark or indicator where you switch from vacuum to positive pressure. Along with the "no minus sign," it's hard to tell if you're in vacuum or boost when in single-digits[/li]
    [li]Sender isn't sealed - I'll probably seal the connector area with silicone to prevent water intrusion. [/li]
    [li]Viewing angle -- comes with the territory for an LCD display I guess. But the highest contrast is actually close to 60-70 degrees from center. It's almost as if the display was made to be mounted way off to the side and tilted away from the driver. If you look at it head on, the background gets a bit washed out[/li]
    [li]Color-change electronics have wonky logic (the subject of this thread)[/li]
Other thoughts:

  • [li]No tenths units - not a big deal, doubt I'd be able to read it while under boost[/li]
    [li]Illumination isn't an exact match for the dash.[/li]
    [li]If the color-change circuitry worked, it would be nice if the colors available were red/white (like the Premium gauges)[/li]
    [li]Control box/daisy-chaining a la Defi gauges would certainly be welcome for when new gauges are added. Currently, I think I'd have to clip wires and re-solder when I add a second gauge.[/li]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And just cause I'm putting everything related to this debacle here...

I've tried just about every fuse in the fuse box, and nothing works. If the white wire gets voltage while the gauge is performing its opening ceremony with power from the amber wire, you're stuck with blue. So I've moved back to just plain red-all-the-time. Looks good.

On a positive note, I've moved the power (red) wire from Fuse 31 (ACC) to Fuse 4 (IG2). Ignition 2 has two key benefits. First, it powers the gauge on and off with the rest of your dash. Second, it doesn't lose power when the engine turns, so you don't get two opening ceremonies. The only downside (if you can call it that) is that you'll never see the "closing ceremony" of the gauge stepping back to 0psi, because it loses power immediately when you kill the engine. But that matches the rest of the dash too.
 

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I did the same thing over the weekend. Honestly I don't really like the blue so I'm going to make mine red all the time too. I have been searching for a way to make them dimmable but the only option I have read about is to wire them into the radio harness.
Is there a way to get them to dimm with the dimmer switch by just tapping fuses?
 

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Thanks for the great shots of how the run the wires. Just got 4 gauges I need install. Was trying to find the right way to run them through the fender.
 

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Anyone else hate this gauge during the day? My old gauge i could see fine. This gauge, even with a visor suck in day light. Does the blue help? I run red 24/7.
 

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I did the same thing over the weekend. Honestly I don't really like the blue so I'm going to make mine red all the time too. I have been searching for a way to make them dimmable but the only option I have read about is to wire them into the radio harness.
Is there a way to get them to dimm with the dimmer switch by just tapping fuses?
Im going to be installing my 3 Evo gauges this week. Ill be hooking it up to be blue during the day and red at night, with dimming controlled from the OEM dimmer switch, and if that doesnt go bright enough or dim enough, There is an adjustedment on the actual gauges as well at the back.

Id like to know if thats possible- to wire directly to a fuse, but based on my research, the 2010 WRX has variable negative dimming on the illumination (dimmer wire) - easiest located in the radio area. This needs a polarity flipping circuit to make it positve variable.

More info at Gauge FAQ: Read if you are thinking of buying some! - NASIOC
and dimming circuit can be soldered by the average guru for less than 12 bucks info at : http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/dim-omori-elect-gauges-oem-3115.html?t=3115


cheers
 
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