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Discussion Starter #1
I posted some pictures in another thread and there was a fair amount of interest so I figured I'd start a thread......

Some of you will think this is overkill, and you're wrong. I didnt pull the carpet or headliner. That might be over kill. Some will think I added too much weight. Wrong again. This isnt a race car, its a semi modest daily driver that should sound and feel like a $40,000 car. It doesn't. I knew this going in, so don't take it as a complaint, I just think that I can correct that.

We added 92 square feet of material, and it weighs roughly 65 pounds. The door skins (inside door frame) , hatch skin, fender wells, b and c pillars have also been covered. My friend who's heading up the project, and I have easily 50 hours combined getting to this point. Add another 5 hours in reassembly, cleanup, and door speaker wiring.

I don't have any real world feedback yet, but I did shoot this quick video of the difference between two doors. The slight rattling you hear on the rear door is the door handle. Every handle on the car rattles and I'd like to correct that as well as the homelink rear view mirror. Any input?



I apologize for the cell phone photos and video. More feedback to follow.

















 

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Looking good! That should give the car that nice "thump" when you close the doors, and really soak up a bunch of the stray vibrations in the hatch area too.
 

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wow, you really went after it, huh? haha. i've been doing this kind of stuff to my cars for a long while when people thought using home depot asphalt roofing product was a good idea, yikes!

it looks to be very cleanly done, nice job!

to maximize the performance of the product, you really only need to cover a portion of the panel. covering the entire thing is a waste of material and money. i've been through that process with various materials and products.

so now that vibrations are taken care of, what will you be using for actual sound deadening? do you have a particular CCF or MLV you've chosen already?

thanks for the photos and i look forwad to the update. i know there are a few folks interested in undertaking similar projects that have been pm'ing me about my and power6's setup so this coupled with your experience with the products you decide to use, will be great!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all.

Monkiboy, to be honest I didnt even know there were better products available. I'm well taken care of at my friends car audio shop, so I picked up what they had there.... A mix of Rockford Fosgate Dead Skin, and Dynamat. I really didn't plan this project out until I picked up an Audio Integrations box in the group buy. I'm going to do the roof and the floor boards with dynamat and I'm done. This stuff is not easy as you know. Plus I dont like pulling the car apart more than once. I made sure to install my door speakers and wiring while the panels were off for the very first time.

I drove the car tonight and WOW! What an incredible difference this has made. Just shutting the doors is a pleasure. Over all the car feels and sounds more solid than it did.

I'll take some video in the next few days for sure. One thing I noticed is that road noise through the floor, and wind noise (roof rack) now seems amplified due to everything else being so quiet. I guess that's next!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm sold! Been driving around for nearly a week with no stereo. I will probably do this to every vehicle I ever own. It has made an incredible change to the interior atmosphere, and over all feel-of-car...

One thing to consider is, will you be ready to hear all the other noisey things that you probably dont even realize are there now? I have a mild case of OCD and these things do bother me. I'm making a list of all the other crap thats making noise and will tackle those fixes as time permits.

If you're on a budget or cannot have the down time I would:

Cover all smooth/flat surfaces. Mainly body skin.... Rear hatch fender wells. and cover as many open holes in the framework as you can. Just covering this openings alone makes a big difference.
 

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Does the white part of the ring light up or is the ring back lit and reflecting off of the enclosure? Also, did you fabricate this or is there a vendor selling these? Will this work with a speaker grill installed?

I too am looking for a solution for the Audio Integrations box and lack of light for the hatch. Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is just something I came up with. I bought the led strips locally at a hobby show. $30.

My speaker grill would not sit flush against the speaker surround do to the design of the enclosure. This way it actually lets the light out..

Just get creative with it. The hard part is wiring the light through the box as to not have any exposed wires.
 

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Nice, I was thinking about deadening and sealing the front and rear doors of my WRX, installing some some decent speakers and a 4 channel amp and calling it a day. Are there large holes in the outer door skins? I had a Ford before and the holes were so big I had to make like a scaffolding of perforated aluminum to put the deadening on.
 
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