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Discussion Starter #1
Just finished one of my rear doors... i used 8square feet for that door alone, gonna put the same on all other doors, some on the roof and trunk to come


Before:



Inside:



Outside:

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Very nice. Why are you doing sound-proofing? Is the car too loud for you?
its in the ICE board, so think about Audi purpose

by doing this you eliminate any rattle in the door, raise the pressure inside the door (SPL = Sound pressure level)
basicaly the door become more like a big speaker box rather than a big bunch of rattle, you can gain a few db and have a cleaner sound
 

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Do you Compete in SPL?? ...it's such a pain in the ASS to put sound deadening on! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I never really compete, but i work in car audio, but this time im building a SQL setup and i want the best possible sound for that car
and yes its a pain... I took my time and it took me all afternoon to do one door :p
 

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Kudos to you. I did that on my Civic and had an unfortunately long hot week and the tar loosened up on the inside of the door and stuck itself to my passenger window. I couldn't roll the window up and it left one hell of a mess!






Ah, everything is back to better!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
did you used a roller and a heatgun to install it ?
 

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No, unfortunately I just slapped the stuff on so I know it was my fault.
 

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thats going to sound real nice when all is said and done.

After i helped my firned do his 69 vw bug, ive lost all drive do mess with dynomat again, haha such a PITA, but well worth the effort.
 

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Kudos to you. I did that on my Civic and had an unfortunately long hot week and the tar loosened up on the inside of the door and stuck itself to my passenger window. I couldn't roll the window up and it left one hell of a mess!
That's why you don't use tar based products ;) Use a butyl based product it is safer and more heat resistant.
 

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i did a lil of my own in the trunk and a lil on the door ;)



 

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ti the op: youre better off putting mat on the floor or firewall than the roof, youll notice more improvement in those places than the roof.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ti the op: youre better off putting mat on the floor or firewall than the roof, youll notice more improvement in those places than the roof.
first the roof is way much easy to access than the floor

and if you do the test to put a dime on the roof while playing the music loud before and after insulating you will see a major difference in the vibration (= more pressure into the car)
 

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Man, that is a serious setup. Where there any downsides, or side effects??? Does the tar melt in hot temps or does the matting compramise anything???How long did this take you and do you have professional training??? Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you dont need a professional training but you will need to know how to disable your car interior safely, lots of time and patience, you might take several more hour than somebody use to it and dont do it as well

the down side i will say will be weight gain but dynamat weight 0.45lb per sq ft... so you can put 80sq ft (a lot) for only 36lb
you need to do it without any bubble since condensation might form in the bubble
 

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you dont need a professional training but you will need to know how to disable your car interior safely, lots of time and patience, you might take several more hour than somebody use to it and dont do it as well

the down side i will say will be weight gain but dynamat weight 0.45lb per sq ft... so you can put 80sq ft (a lot) for only 36lb
you need to do it without any bubble since condensation might form in the bubble
And that's when the roller comes into play right? I've always cut bubbles out of stickers, but I wouldn't think that would work as well with dynamat.

Plus, do you buy it from Dynamat them selves or else where?
 

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Christ guys, that's some serious sound deadening!!

This has been on the top priority list for a while but haven't gotten around to it... I just want to do the doors to keep the rattles out at deep bass. It's such a pain in the ass though!

Related question, any sources for those white plastic rivet-clips that hold the door cards on, other than the dealership? Or an idea on price? I know for a fact I will lose some when I get into the deadening. :p
 
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