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if you set your LC too low of an rpm it will bog and defeat the purpose, i've got mine sitting at 5000 rpm and works well.

Something to get used to with FFS is that you have to commit otherwise if your driving along and touch the clutch slightly at an rpm higher then what you've set for FFS, your car will have an unexpected jolt as it will rev cut
 

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So does the FFS only cut the fuel when you push the clutch in above the set RPM? Does it affect normal driving at all when you aren't flat foot shifting? I'd like to try this stuff out.
 

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So does the FFS only cut the fuel when you push the clutch in above the set RPM? Does it affect normal driving at all when you aren't flat foot shifting? I'd like to try this stuff out.
For me if i press the clutch and gas flat, it just keeps bouncing off the ffs rpm. But doesnt affect normal driving for me :eek:
 

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What's this tinypatcher thing? If you have the most recent firmware from Cobb (plug in your AP into your PC/notebook) and it should automatically update itself. Also, if you have AP tuner race software then you can enable LC/FFS on that software. You just open your current map and click save as. That's it. Upload onto AP and upload onto your ECU.



...on the other hand, no one has mentioned accessport in this thread so sorry if this has nothing to do with this thread haha
this thread is for opensource tuning of the FFS / LC, so no AP here :)

So does the FFS only cut the fuel when you push the clutch in above the set RPM? Does it affect normal driving at all when you aren't flat foot shifting? I'd like to try this stuff out.
FFS basically sets a cutoff RPM when the clutch is pressed. the value is decided by you, and shouldn't hamper regular driving if properly configured (5k-ish...?). ofc if your FFs is set way low it'll cut when you press the clutch and you are going to wonder why...
 

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My little tip to prevent accidentally engaging FFS is to adjust the clutch switch. You can actually do this to move the clutch pedal down a bit to get rid of the soft feel up top. This way it is harder to accidentally engage the clutch too early. This also puts the clutch pedal about even with the brake pedal where I like it anyway.

heres a pic
 

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My little tip to prevent accidentally engaging FFS is to adjust the clutch switch. You can actually do this to move the clutch pedal down a bit to get rid of the soft feel up top. This way it is harder to accidentally engage the clutch too early. This also puts the clutch pedal about even with the brake pedal where I like it anyway.

heres a pic
What exactly am I looking at there Eric? Or looking FOR actually. May do this when I get home, I have a hatred for the stock clutch...
 

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And what did you do to it to make the clutch pedal lower? Sorry, I don't have my car near me when I'm at work, else id go stick my head under there :(
 

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The clutch rests on the threaded part of the switch.
See the 2 nuts on the switch? Just loosen them and you can adjust the threaded part to push the clutch down then tighten the nuts. Kind of like adjusting a throttle cable.

The more thread sticking out, the farther down the pedal will be pushed.
 

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It wont change your engagement point at all, just the pedal height at rest. The engagement point is adjustable as well but harder to access, its over by the accelerator pedal and you adjust that like a wastegate actuator, remove a pin and spin it on the master cylinder rod.
 

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Sounds good thanks for the quick reply. One other question is I have your stage 2 map for the accessport (2010 WRX) and I was wondering what you recommend setting the ffs at and what are good shift points for that setting?
 

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Well for ffs you want it set to whatever the rpm you get into 2nd from on the 1-2 shift or lower. You can't really go too low with this number because as soon as the clutch is released fueling is restored. Just don't set it to zero or the car would die when you hit the clutch while in neutral.
 

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It wont change your engagement point at all, just the pedal height at rest. The engagement point is adjustable as well but harder to access, its over by the accelerator pedal and you adjust that like a wastegate actuator, remove a pin and spin it on the master cylinder rod.
Hmmm I may have to take a look a that. Wonder if i can get the clutch to feel less vague
 

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Well for ffs you want it set to whatever the rpm you get into 2nd from on the 1-2 shift or lower. You can't really go too low with this number because as soon as the clutch is released fueling is restored. Just don't set it to zero or the car would die when you hit the clutch while in neutral.
I would like to thank you for helping me find learning view and I finally got my lc +ffs map to have 1 IAM :)
 

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no problem, when are you buying a map from me ;) LOL. While your on the stock tune do your self a favor and zero out the closed loop open loop delay. You engine will thank you for it:) It will get rid of the lean issue at spool up and peak torque.
 

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no problem, when are you buying a map from me ;) LOL. While your on the stock tune do your self a favor and zero out the closed loop open loop delay. You engine will thank you for it:) It will get rid of the lean issue at spool up and peak torque.
;D , I plan to just skip on thru straight to protune(stage 2) this winter..I'll have to look into that closed loop open loop delay ???
 

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Well the simple way to adjust the CL/OL delay is to take it from 750 to zero. However there are other ways around this delay like the way I do it in my maps, I eliminate the delay by a certain RPM in each gear. Also I eliminate it with throttle position.

The Australian cars don't have the same issue we have in America, This is because the CL/OL delay is eliminated above 59.5% throttle. In the US we aren't so lucky and have a potentially dangerous factory tune for some emissions or gas mileage reason.
 
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