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Discussion Starter #1
Everyone...

I have gotten word as to my bogging issue.... I spoke with a Suby Tuner and he told me that EBC are very bad ideas for Subies because the EBC does not allow the ECU to manage the boost. So if you have a knocking issue then the ECU cannot make the changes to boost needed. He told me that he can run the stock ECU up to 29psi without any problems. He said that there is no need to run an EBC with the Subies, even with a turbo upgrade. He said that the ECU can be tuned to control that.

Also, with the fuel system, if you are running the stock turbo then there is no need. The stock fuel regulator, he said, is good up to 30psi with the turbo, never had any issues with that.
 

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we should start a thread of mods that are useless to our cars
EBC
Intakes
Vent to atmosphere BOV's

The list goes on. ...
 

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hmmmm we may need 2nd opinion on that. Rallitek, any thing?

anyway, my car's running fine after the pump and tuning. =)
 

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pehon, correct me if I'm wrong but your WBC is unique in the sense that you can control when the wastegate opens and the speed at which it opens. That may be one reason you have less problems.
 

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when my car was getting tuned, the tuner preferred to use the AEM boost solonoid rather than the stock one.
when i switch between my maps, i also switch between file A(low) and file B(high) on the TruBoost.

Also, if you aren't getting a CAI you will need a Big MAF and the stock turbo inlet hose is durable enough for a bigger turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, this guy said that the ECU can be used to control everything. He said that there are a lot of tuners that use EBC because they don't know how to tune it with the ECU.

The reason that he said that EBCs are bad is because if you are knocking then the ECU will shut the boost off and compensate to control that, if you have an external one then the ECU can't make the changes necessary to keep your car from blowing up. And the ECU is far better at controlling everything the any of the EBC on the market.

When I called this guy and told him what was going on, his first question was if I had an EBC. He said that the EBC was most likely the issue. Now I thought that my car has been running a little weird since I got that installed. I also asked if it could be the BOV, injectors, fuel pump, or fuel regulator and he told me that with a stock turbo then it wouldn't be anything with the fuel and the BOV is probably not the issue.

I will be getting it tuned on Monday and I will let everyone know what the problem is.
 

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Thanks for the post coop. I was just about to buy a boost controller and an access port. Now im wondering what I should do. So the sooner you find out, the sooner I can make my purchase.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, you wouldn't have any problems with the AP. Again I am just relaying the info that I got from this tuner. He has tuned a lot of Subies, so I trust his opinion. I am going to get rid of my boost controller and just have the guy tune it properly.
 

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the main reason you went with the EBC was to control overboosting, so this tuner thinks that the ecu can keep that under control ? I understand that the ecu can adapt better than the ebc. I wonder if a beefier wastegate might be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, I got the EBC to control overboosting. This guy told me that the ECU can do a better job at it, it just has to be done properly. Didn't say anything about needing a beefier wastegate.
 

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thanks coop for the info. This is the kind of stuff that adds value to forums like this. It's easy to want to throw a lot of money and parts at our cars, without knowing the true potential outcome (good or bad) that will come out of it. It will be interesting to hear from you after your session on Monday. Who is your tuner? Anybody we would know...or someone locally known to you?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I was refered to him after a couple hours of phone calls to different shops. I talked with him on the phone and I felt very comfortable with this and he really knows what he is talking about. He has tuned hundreds of Subies, so I will trust his opinion there. I have his first name, I will post his info after Monday.
 

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Whatever happened with this coop? I read your post about deleting some mods. Trying to track down what's working and what's not at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am getting rid of the performance parts and taking the motor stuff back to stock. Everything has worked well, but I want to increase my reliability as I drive a couple thousand miles per month.
 

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Don't forget to add a turbo timer to the useless list....

(Optional but otherwise unnecessary)
if you turn your car off after running it hard, oil will get clogged up inside the turbo.
i've seen a Garret 50 trim get clogged and send oil out the coolant outlet.


From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A turbo timer is a device designed to keep an automotive engine running for a pre-specified period of time in order to automatically execute the cool-down period required to prevent premature turbo wear and failure. After a period of driving when a turbocharger has been working hard, it is important to let the engine run at idle speed for a period of time, allowing the compressor assembly to cool from the lower gas temperatures in both the exhaust and intake tracts. At the same time the lubricating oil from the engine is able to circulate properly so the turbine won't burn the lubricating oil that would otherwise be trapped within the charger with the turbine rotating at high speed. With regard to modern automotive turbochargers, the need for a turbo timer can be eliminated by simply ensuring the car does not produce any 'boost' (during driving) for several minutes prior to the ignition being shut off.
 
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